5 inch HSS BI Metal Hole Saw Cutter 1-1/2 Depth with Big Arbor for Wood Metal

The description included a 1 1/8 saw as well for the price. I only received the 4 1/14 inch saw.

Bought the 5” hole saw to use on 1/2 inch plywood, and in a 2x8 board. Was impressed by the quality, given how inexpensive it was. The arbor is good quality and came with two drill bits, plus a small hex wrench for the set screw. Was very sharp and have a very clean cut. Only needed it for a small job, so can’t speak to how long it will hold up after many uses. But would not hesitate to buy another one if I need a different size in the future.

If you want to cut a hole for a 4” exhaust pipe, then you’ll be wanting a hole slightly bigger than 4”. This will cut that hole, probably. On my house it cut through cement fiber board (Hardie Board) and wood sheathing. You’ll need something different If you’re going through concrete (perhaps obviously). I was pleased with the weight and apparent hardness of the blade. I only had to cut a single vent hole, so I can not speak to long term durability. Here’s a tip if you’re putting in a vent and you’ve not done something like this before: drill a small pilot hole where you want the big hole to be. In my case, I went into the attic and drilled a small hole through the wall where I wanted to vent out. This way I could be sure to cut the hole where I wanted and be confident I wasn’t going to hit a stud, wiring, or some other sort of surprise. Then, make the big cut from the outside so that you get a nice clean edge in your siding. Good luck!

Seems very well made. I had four holes to cut to install a 6” duct for the microwave/ventilation hood to the outside. I was thinking at this price it might not hold up but to my surprise I think it would cut dozens of times before it becomes dull. My cabinet back is plywood and the wall is tongue and groove lumber, and it cut with no problem. You will need a drill with a 1/2 inch chuck then don’t force the cut just let the cutter do the work.

Works well, very sharp.

This huge hole saw works fine in a drill press when you clamp your material down. Using this with a portable drill is another matter entirely. The blade is too coarse to cut smoothly and will catch and try to break your wrist. If you attempt it, use a drill with a clutch and go slow. I have only used it a few times so can’t comment on durability, however I would purchase it again.

Inexpensive compared to name brands but worked perfectly for me cutting a half dozen holes through 2 layers of wood (3/4 incl solid cedar plank backed by 3/4 inch plywood sheeting) still looks knew. Needs 1/2 drill for power. As another reviewer pointed out, use an auxiliary drill handle. Hole saws can bind (did it twice) and the drill torque can seriously strain or otherwise damage your wrist. But saw cut clean holes every time

Not sure what others are doing wrong... some of the reviews complained about strength of the mandrel and such but I really put it through its paces drilling at least 7 through various layers of old siding and the sill without an issue. I really does bite hard so for the 5.5 bit Im glad I had a high torque low speed drill. Note this mandrel on the 5.5 will need a 1/2 drill chuck at least (typical 3/8 wont fit).

When mounting the mandrel to the hole saw. The pins were hard to get in the hole saw clock to match the pins. I had to put tape on the mounting surface to get a tight fit. Secondly the set screw for the drill bit would not screw in. Had to chase the threads. There was tiny pieces of metal in the thread. Hope there is a resolution?

I bought this cheap 5 holesaw to cut through a 1 thick piece of steel. Not just any steel, it is 4140- a chromium molybdenum manganese alloy. But wait- not just any 4140, it is hardened 4140, 32 on the rockwell C scale. A lot of 4140 is sold in the annealed state for easier cutting, but then needs to be hardened afterwards to gain the strength benefits of this alloy. I verified the 32Rc myself, cause I believe it matters for what Im making. Anyway, this holesaw cuts it fine. I ran it at about 70 rpm, a little faster than 1 rotation per second. A little less than 100 fpm linear speed. Using a pecking motion, lubrication, allowing chips to clear. Many drill presses and most hand drills just wont go that slow. If you put this in a hand drill and think youre gonna cut even a piece of sheet metal, its going to be hard to control, and if you spin it fast (like the 600 rpm speed that seems slow in your 1/2 drill) you could probably dull this in seconds. That is just the nature of a large diameter cutter like this. If you overspeed it in metal, you WILL ruin it, in seconds. This saw isnt magic metal, and neither is one that costs 3 times as much. This was used in a milling machine..it is rigid, and can go slow. If used to cut a hole in your ceiling for a lamp, you could get away with a lot, none of this applies. The saw wasnt real round...I checked it and improved it a little by hitting with a hammer, checking, hitting, etc. BUT- more expensive brands are no better at all, they are always pretty out of round..unfortunate, but good enough. Tight quality control costs a lot. You want a $150 hole saw thats somewhat better? Ill deal with a cheap one, myself. It is a roughing tool, no more. It pains me to see most drills and holesaws oversped by users who then dull it and blame the tool!