Cooler Master NR200P MAX SFF Small Form Factor Mini-ITX Case, Custom 280mm AIO, 850W SFX Gold PSU, Triple-slot Vertical Mount GPU, PCIe Gen4 Riser, Tempered Glass or Vented Panel (NR200P-MCNN85-SL0)

I upgraded to this case from a Cougar QBX. The QBX was a low cost alternative to the nCase M1 when that came out a few years ago. The NR200 is the exact same internal layout as both of those cases minus a spot for a optical drive. This case was a little cheaper months ago when it released but it has increased in price rightfully so as it is a great case. Do not pay $$$ for a kickstarter SFF case unless you have the budget and the patience. This case has a great fit and finish. It is dimentionally slightly smaller than my QBX so it will fit into a backpack AND fit in the underseat compartment on most airplanes. Ive got the Scythe Mugen 5 rev.B on an Asus z170i pro motherboard and the side panel closes fully with a milimeter to spare without the crosspanel installed. Airflow is great with the mesh sidepanels. I like that there is an abundance of filters on this case and the tooless capability makes it very easy to work in for regular maintenance or upgrades. Plenty of room for bigger modern hardware (whenever there is hardware to actually purchase these days). I think the price is still competitive as long as it doesnt climb above $100.

The NR200P Max is an outstanding design and a great successor to the NR200P. The back panel of the chassis has been completely redesigned and the case is entirely intended to be used with the included 280mm AIO Liquid Cooler and a vertically mounted GPU. Let me start by saying that it is nice to have an all inclusive purchase option from a reputable company like Cooler Master. They include a solid 280mm AIO (with fan grilles) and an 850W SFX power supply with custom length cabling. They also included a short PCIe 4.0 riser cable. Skipping the parts research step for an ITX build and some of the assembly is really nice for a lot of buyers. All you have to do is pick your CPU, board, RAM, storage, and GPU. Heres where it goes wrong. The current price is a full $130 higher than MSRP at launch. $459 seems to be the going rate right now on almost every store that sells this build kit. Even at retail prices for each item included, this is a poor value. To make matters worse, the case currently only comes in gray, and my example came straight out of the box with the paint worn off along the top front edge of the plastic top panel. The side panels are all metal and seem to be durably painted or powdercoated. I have no doubt Cooler Master will eventually sell this setup in other colors, and hopefully back the price down, as PC components are steadily decreasing in cost at the time of this review. The measurements of the side and front panels are the same as the NR200/NR200P, which gave me an idea. I bought a black base model NR200 and swapped out all of the black exterior parts onto my gray NR200P MAX. I reassembled the gray parts onto the base model NR200 chassis and threw that case up for sale, second hand. With the $459 price tag, I couldnt stick with the gray and be satisfied. The case itself is excellent. The near tool-less design is outstanding, and this case is easy to work inside compared to many other small form factor designs from their competitors. Cooler Master has a solid win here, QC and pricing notwithstanding. Having dabbled a little in SFF builds in the past several years, I want to express the lack of real benefit to most buyers for this style case, beyond operating temperatures. Most people would still be better off with a compact ATX or MATX case, either of which can certainly be built for less money. Tower style SFF cases, such as the NZXT H1 make a lot more sense for small form factor, if desk space savings is your aim. The footprint of the CM NR200 series still takes up a fair amount of room comparitively. Still, as mentioned, the thermals will be noticeably better here than with other designs. The NR200 would also make a great HTPC if you can manage its size, namely the height. Lets also talk about what this case is not. It is not an ultra-portable gaming machine. The included AIO and rock-solid chassis construction make this a little on the heavy side. This case is just too big to be ultra-portable. It probably isnt going in a backpack. Still, if moving a PC around is something you have to do, its still a much better option than any mATX or ATX case, especially if you ditch the included glass side panel. You can save some weight by shopping smart on your GPU (plastic shrouds win here), as well as going M.2 NVMe for storage. If you want a lighter build, you might also opt for the original NR200 paired with an air cooler. If youre looking for a portable gamer, look at the KXRORS S300 case, or anything from Velkase, if you dont mind paying a little more money. This system supposedly only supports 2.5 drives. At least thats what the listing led me to believe. However, upon unpacking my NR200 cases, I noticed some holes in the bottom panel that seemed very familiar. It turns out you can install a 3.5 hard drive on the bottom panel using the included grommets and studs. Youll lose a fan space by doing this, but it should be fine if youre not using the tempered glass side panel. As for M.2 vs SATA, I dont even see a reason to buy 2.5 drives because M.2 NVMe SSDs are currently so close in price. You will greatly eliminate unnecessary wiring by going with M.2 NVMe for storage. The included glass panel is worthless for a lot of builds, outside of low to mid-power setups where the CPU/GPU combo arent making a lot of heat anyway. Higher-end setups are going to turn the glass panel case setup into a toaster. Most folks opt to stay with the mesh side panel. If youre using RGB, take your time with the wiring, so you can avoid obstructing your fans. Remember that the vertically-mounted GPU obscures most of the fans and AIO pump from view. I considered using an LED strip to provide some RGB, beyond just the RAM and GPU accents, but the case interior leaves no real room for a strip, especially since all of the panels are snapped together to the chassis. In short, you might decide to save the coin and buy non-RGB components. Additionally youll need to use some thinner case fans on the bottom. If you dont already have fans to use, you might go to something low profile to avoid contact between the GPU riser cable and the fan housing. If vertical GPU orientation and liquid cooling arent important, or if you want a lightweight ITX build, stick with the base model NR200 and provide your own 850W SFX PSU. Youll certainly come out cheaper. If you want the NR200 with a relatively easy build experience and an AIO, this might be good option for you. In conclusion, Cooler Master has an outstanding formula here. They just need to come back down to Earth and give their customers what they want, at a more reasonable price, while making sure it goes out the door in new condition. This case has all of the other ingredients to be a 5-star Hall of Fame ITX case.

This case is awesome, well designed, well made. This was my first computer build, and my son, who has some experience, questioned my decision to go with the NR200P given the additional challenge of working in a small space--until he saw it in person. He was so impressed, he wanted one for himself. Here is my build: Intel Core i7-12700K ASUS ROG Strix B660-I (mini-ITX) Nvidia RTX 3070FE GPU Kingston Fury Beast DDR5 16 x 2 RAM (rgb) EVGA Supernova 750W SFX power supply (note small form factor) SK Hynix Platinum P41 2 TB m.2 SSD SK Hynix Platinum P41 1 TB m.2 SSD Thermalright Silver Soul 135 white cooler Arctic P9 PWM PST 92mm fan Arctic BioniX F120 fans x 2 Chassis fan hub CPU Cooling (the really cryptic looking one) Noteworthy: The Thermalright cooler DOES fit, even with the glass side. Actually has some room to spare. The Kingston RAM has only about 2mm clearance from the cooling tower. But 2mm is enough. My fan hub sits behind the front panel, nicely hidden, because its not pretty. I routed several things behind that panel. You can also place SSDs there, but mine are both m.2, directly plugged into the MB, so that front panel was wide open for wires. I added two fans on the bottom and one at the back. Based on my review of the literature (YouTube), the best airflow with a cooling tower is to intake from the bottom and back, and exhaust thru the top. Including the fan in the center of my cooling tower, I have 6 fans in here and no problems with heat. The two stock fans are on top. I did add a magnetic filter on the back to block off the openings back there. My computer sits right next to an air filter which is right next to a chinchilla cage, with hair and dust floating everywhere. ______________________________________ Everyone talks about the challenge of routing the cables in such a small case. For me, this was the fun part and I was very happy with the outcome. Like I said, Im a first time builder, so I have no experience. Which means you can do it too. You can decide based on the pics whether you think I did a decent enough job. Just ordered another NR200P for a surprise system for my dad. Hope it goes as well as the first one, but if it doesnt, the problem wont be the case! LOVE LOVE LOVE the colors, too! I wouldve gone with pink if it hadnt been $50 more at the time of my build. Even thought about getting one now and switching everything out, but decided not to rock the boat.

However after doing so, i do not recomend going above the limit. it fit but all the cables made it very difficult. One question i had was how many ssds can it fit and where. it can fit 2 on the front panel and 1 on top of the psu, in the middle, makeing 3 total. It is a really cool mounting mechanism ive never seen in a case before, just screw on standoffs to the ssd and push it through, rubber grommits that grip them.

This case was pretty easy to use for my new PC build. Nearly everything comes out to make it really simple to drop in your motherboard and accessories. Theres good airflow, and it fits long graphics cards. It looks really good too. The annoying bits for me are that the power supply placement is kind of awkward for cabling and that the max CPU cooler height was a tiny bit too low for me (Noctua NH-D15 - 165mm tall). I bought a 3d printed extender for the side panel that gave me the extra millimeters for my CPU, and now everything is great.

I picked this case up on Amazon Prime day for $33 after a huge discount down to something around $77, and with a $50 amazon gift card. I have very little to say about this case, but all of it is positive 1.) I was expecting cable management to be much more difficult than it was. If you have zip ties, it should be a breeze, but time consuming 2.) Build quality is fantastic. the entire case is so solid that I feel like I could slam it against my desk only to break the desk before I dent the case. The front panel is also very very thick, moreso than any other part of the case. The entire thing with the exception of some trim seems to be made of aluminum. 3.) This thing will fit just about any hardware you could want in it. I recommend using a 2 slot graphics card if you want to fit intake fans at the bottom,as with a 3 slot card you need thin intake fans. and I also recommend not using more than 2 radiators for a custom loop system, and just using more fans. 4.) Cooling performance is fantastic. Temps are in the 40s for my 5600x using an NZXT 280mm AIO, and temps in the 70s for my 3 slot 980ti.

The CM NR200p max is a good system. I’ve been looking to build a SFF system for over a year now. I finally decided to build one since I’ve been using the MSI TridentX2 (beast of a gaming PC). For anyone thinking twice about this PC, you should get it. I will say that if you never built a PC or don’t like tweaking things multipolar times, you may find building a PC like this stressful. But I can say it really isn’t stressful at all. The AIO in this system is top notch, the PSU is good even enough for the 40 series and we’ll constructed SFF. My specs I have a MSI Z790i edge Wi-Fi motherboard 6000 TridentZ ram 32gb Two CoolerMaster Halo2 gen 2 140mm fans( replaced radiator 140mm) Intel i7-13700k Two Noctua 120mm 15s for bottom intake fans When I first built the PC the temps were my biggest concerns especially for a SFF like this. However after tweaking and watching a few YouTube videos, I was able to get the i7-13700k under good temps. When I first stated I was getting 70-80c when gaming but nothing over 80c. You definitely need to undervolt the i7 it runs hot. To do this, you can simply go into your bios and if your motherboard supports it, use CPU lite load. It’s one of the easiest ways to undervolt. I think everyone starts at default(mode 9). The pc will most likely throttle when running stress test. I switched mine to mode 2(CPU lite load) and one other thing, you must use an aggressive fan tuning. If you have good fans, you won’t hear much when the fans are ramped up a bit.I have attached a photo of my fan curves. Also I can use the mesh or tempered glass with this unit. TG gives me 1-2c temps more but due to my bottom 2 noctua fans and my fan curves I get great temps while gaming. Also when doing regular computer task. Keep in mind, it all depends on what you’re trying to accomplish with your PC build. But if you plan on gaming, web browsing, school work, YouTube or nothing like streaming or 4k editing you should be just find. I did not test the system for 4k editing or streaming but I’m sure the PC would run hotter as those events add more stress to the PC. Just YouTube and you will find how to fine tune your build based on your needs and you should be just fine. For me, this is a great little PC with good cooking exactly what I needed for my needs.

Really love this case. It was super easy to build in and the AIO and power supply so far have been working really well. I love that the power supply comes with custom cables that fit perfectly, so there is really minimal extra slack in the case. I changed out the top two fans with better thermaltake ones, which was really easy as the entire case comes apart really easily. Temperatures are also really good with my 7900X and 3080ti. They never go above mid 70s gaming with an optimal fan curve, hardly any noise at all. I cant recommend this case enough for anybody looking to get into SFF PCs

Great case! Easy to build in, accommodates lots of different hardware, and excellent cooling! I bought the NR200P vs the NR200 specifically to vertically mount my GPU with a bottom mounted AIO radiator based on Cooler Master product photos I saw of that configuration. However, only after purchasing did I find out PC building experts warn against bottom mounting AIOs, so I never used the vertical GPU mount or glass panel, they just sit in a closet. Side mounted the radiator instead which is ok, but arguably less visually appealing. If you want to vertically mount your GPU, better to get the NR200 MAX now that it’s available or just get a normal NR200. Don’t really see use of “P” model unless you air cool your CPU.

Very easy to put together, its overall a nice case but not worth the $500 price ($150 over msrp). LGA 1700 has been introduced for quite some time now but this over priced case doesnt even include bracket for 12 & 13 gen cpu?