Freud 12-152: 3/4 (Dia.) Double Flute Straight Bit (Eclipse Grind) Red

so far so good

Freud bits are designed and precision machined in Italy - and they really are works of art. They plunge quickly, clear chips effortlessly and run through hardwood with ease. Im sure there are other fine bits out there, but for the value and at this price, I believe its no contest. If youre cutting dados, planing or jointing, you will be thrilled with these bits. Pros: • Sharp and removes chips fast • Designed for quick plunges • Delivers crisp clean edges • Hardened steel stays sharp longer than competition • 1/2 shanks nearly eliminate chatter Cons: • Expensive - but worth every penny • They are nearly impossible to remove from the packaging Tips To Remove From Packaging: • Wear Gloves! I mean it - these are as sharp as an ER scalpel. • Firmly grasp the flat (non-sharp) sides and wiggle the bit back and forth while pulling upward • Do not use pliers, channel locks or your vise. You will scratch the heck out of your beautiful bit • When storing in the packaging, only insert about 1/4 to make it simple to remove in the future! Usage Tip: • To avoid burning the wood when using the larger diameter bits, keep your router speed in the medium range or about 16,000rpm

worked great, well made!

I needed a larger straight cutting bit for a project I was working on. I bought this one and I must tell you, this thing cuts! The bit runs true, sharp as heck and no tear out! Pretty much what you’d expect from Freud!

Go through the material slowly.

The trick with router bits is to make sure they are clean and sharp. They are pretty good from factory, but I found if you clean them and give them a good honing with a diamond file card before first use. They work much better. Also important to use correct router speed and feed rate. But dull dirty bits along with incorrect speed and feed lead to burning. When used properly these bits work great. Unfortunately some undersized plywood from foreign producers sold at big box stores are now thinner than 21/32nds. So these might even be a little over sized for those ply goods. So if you buy from large retailers, check the actual thickness of the sheet stock.

Its like a hot knife through butter. Very happy.

I made a cherry table and used it to cut mortises as well as groves the length of 6 planks. I made groves 1/2 inch deep for splines to locate the planks. The total distance would be roughly 55 feet of cutting. The bit was still sharp and cut 10 mortises 1 3/4 inch deep on the ends of the table. I believe theres a possibility that those who broke the bits tried to cut the full depth in a single pass and at too great of a speed. To cut the full 1 3/4 inch mortise I made 3 passes, which is more or less standard procedure. Using digital calipers I checked the floating tenons that fit the mortises and they measured .373 inches. .375 is 3/8 of an inch.

I use this almost exclusively to cut slots in small shelves. Like for a fastener or a lectern book sliding stopper or perhaps something adjustable. I could use the 1/4 straight bit that came in a set of various bits costing about what this one bit costs. So why would I buy this? Well, it cuts far more accurately. You can see by eye even that the slot is kind of perfect. The 1/2 shank transfers more power for any brand, but its still a feature. The cutter goes straight and it doesnt care if it suddenly hits where a branch was in hardwood or an odd spot in something, that just disappears. Thats where the free or multi-pack one fails. Something a little off and it wobbles and maybe you can see it, or the board moves a little, or the slot height is uneven, or even some little bits fly out, all of which leave the slot looking crummy. So being frugal I might very well use cheap bits sometimes where the holes will be invisible or Im just doing some random chopping. But for finishing stuff that the end user will see, you need to use a specialty premium bit. For me thats usually Freud bits because I get consistently good results with them. And again, not saying your whole set needs to be these--theyre not cheap. But even for a hobbyist who cant pass on the cost, the ones you really like and use frequently should be Freud.

You do the math... this should produce a very tight fit. It does. Pliers were required to force the 1/4 shelf pins into the 15/64 holes. But, that was the recommendation of the shelf pin jig maker (Rockler). I dont think I will be making frequent changes to the shelf positions. (I have used the bit only one time to make 16 shelf pin holes so I wont comment on either longevity or value for money.)