Rust Treatment, 1 Qt Btl, Opaque

It seems to convert the rust and leave a rubbery like, black coating on the steel. So far I like it and what it does. The first bottle this size (1-quart), lasted through a 67 Cutlass, 71 C10 stepside muscle truck and 77 GMC truck. Besides the normal brushing on, I tried to use it to fill a cavity.... Dont bother unless you can tip that item in all kinds of angles to get it to coat. By filling a cavity, it just creates a film that turns black where exposed to air and under it, it will still be liquid. I tried to fill the rear cab brace on a square body GMC. After waiting 2 weeks for it to harden, I more or less gave up and just moved on with my project, spraying it down with coal tar epoxy. I attached 2 pics, the first showing the raw steel framework for the sail panel (C pillar) for a 67 Cutlass after I sanded it down. I coated the sail panel framework with this stuff before buttoning it up with a donor rear quarter. It works OK if you put it in a squirt bottle to reach tight spots. Just dont put in much. As for the bottle, brush, paint cup or whatever you use to apply this, itll be ruined. Im not even sure it can be cleaned from a brush well enough to matter, I just buy the 99 cent brushes (not foam) wherever I find them and toss when Im done. The lids for aerosol paint cans or a Dixie cup work good as a holding cup. Do NOT put unused product back in the bottle! A little goes a LONG way... Imagine brushing on water and how well thatd cover if all you had to do was get the surface wet. This stuff is bad news if you burn it and has a weird smell. Yeah, youd never intentionally hit this with a flame, but if you coat the inside of the panel with this, then weld that panel in place..... Make sure its well ventilated, dont need a third arm popping out of your back mid project. Wait, that might actually be useful, my luck Id get a third ear that doesnt work any better than the other two useless ears, but itll be on my forehead.... Dont do it... Dont let your young body write checks your old man body cant cash... Lastly, Im part of several large car groups and it seems that all the other products out there that do this similar thing with rust, arent any better than this brand. A couple are close to equal, but many fall short of this stuff.

Easy to use, dries quickly to a black surface you can paint, or if a floorboard as in my Heeps case, just cover with Dynomat and carpet (after you fix the leak!)

This liquid is nothing short of amazing at stopping rust and putting a black coating on rusted metal, that can be painted over if needed. One word of caution, i would wear some type of latex gloves while using this product, If you get it on bare skin, it will trun anything it touches to black Neat impossible to get off. I used this lquid in restoreing a rare car and used close to two gallons on the frame and interior body panels that had been sandblasted. As far as i know the rust has never came back, that was 30 years ago.

arrived on time, Extend works great

Quality stuff works great on stopping rust theres nothing better out there

This is a great product that actually works. I have been using it on my boat trailer for about four (4) years with excellent results. Just knock off any loose corrosion and brush this on. It turns black or dries in about 20 min then paint it your favorite color to match the rest of your gear. Rust-Oleum 7213830 Hammered Metal Finish Spray, Silver if you have a galvanized trailer.

This is a great invention. No wire brushes just put it on wait and paint. I have a lot of iron to do this will make the job a lot quicker.

I had some rusty spots on my wrought iron railings due to a lousy powder coat. A welder recommended this product. He said to brush off any crumbling pieces of rust, and just paint Loctite Extend on the remaining rust. It bonds with the rust and dries black. It was perfect for my problem. I should be able to get many more years out of these railings.

Wish it turned more black than opeq.

Use as directed and it will do what it is described to do