Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin 405nm UV-Curing Non-Brittle High Precision 3D Printing Liquid Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD DLP 3D Printing(Grey, 1kg)

I was using the AnyCubic resins. The basic grey stuff, UV curable. Nothing Fancy. Even tried the black. I had a couple good prints and the rest all had some kind of error. Undefined tiny part here, unprinted hand or foot there, then I read to give Siraya Tech Fast a shot (for miniatures) and I havent had a single error since. Even reprinted the parts that failed before, with ZERO errors. Maybe I got old resin from AnyCubic? Maybe it was just a bad batch, I cant say honestly. But theres no need to figure it out, because Ill never use anything but Siraya Tech from now on. A little bit more in cost, but worth the extra few pennies. The grey is actually a lighter shade than the AnyCubic grey, and Im really enjoying using this stuff. And more importantly, the odor, is almost non-existent. AnyCubic resins will give you a headache, as soon as you open the bottle, and it has filled the room with the resin smell. This stuff, I can actually sit in the room while its printing and not even smell it. Which is a HUGE plus for those extra pennies. Using ChituBox on Photon Mono 4ks (I have 2) with all the default settings, and not a single issue.

Siraya Tech Resin. Quite possibly the most popular hobbyist resin on the market. New to the tech & started using it right away and havent had any issues related to quality. We use it for doing prototypes that require flexibility with toughness. Im also finding its very easy to combine with other resins within the product line. Im even mixing it with titanium dioxide & its performing well! Ive yet to test the detail quality but I plan on it soon. Great quality resin for a little bit more money. Its well worth it imo.

Updated after I received the bad bottle. It was replaced for free and Ive purchased a couple since with 0 leaks. AMAZING! ***Well this resin was recommended by a source so I went with it. I have painted many miniatures for him that were printed with this resin and I really liked the way they came out. So I ordered myself a bottle and it is fantastic resin. My issue is that when I ordered the second bottle, it arrived with a broken seal and most of the contents had leaked out into the product box. What. A. Mess. I am not going to bomb this product with a 1 star review because the resin really is fantastic if youre ready to flip a coin on whether or not youll receive any lol. It is also worth nothing, that the bottle caps on the bottles were both different, so my guess is perhaps I received one bottle with a new cap design (youll find many other reviews here stating they also received leaky bottles) and one bottle with the old cap design. The one non leaky bottle I got came fully in tact and in perfect condition, filled to the top with that sweet, sweet grey wizard juice. Overall, Id say that my experience was isolated and Amazon will happily refund me or exchange the resin at no cost to me. TL;DR - Fantastic resin, poor packaging on old bottles that causes leaking, but there are new bottle caps that keep everything in tact, just a matter of hoping you get a good bottle. :) A few tips and tricks for those new to resin: Use denatured alcohol instead of isopropyl alcohol. IPA right now is nearly impossible to find and youre limited to how much you can buy due to COVID-19. Denatured works just as well (perhaps even slightly better), it costs a bit more by volume but I havent noticed clouding in it as bad as when I tried cleaning my prints with IPA, which leads me to believe a little denatured alcohol goes a long way by comparison to IPA. With this resin Ive only really needed to cure with UV for about 5 minutes on most miniatures Ive printed, any longer and it tends to start getting brittle. In a test where I exposed the resin to 18 hours of direct UV contact, there was no discoloration.

I did not expect this to be this good... Im going to order more and maybe try the grey/navy grey

Ive used several bottles of Fast Grey resin and it works great. I bought a bottle of Creamy this time (after chatting with Siraya Tech customer support to make sure it would work with the same printers settings as Grey) because Creamy was several dollars cheaper. Big mistake. Almost every print is failing, even when I go back and add extra supports. Update: Someone on Discord told me to try adding exposure time for Creamy; I increased the exposure for the non-base layers by 0.4 seconds and its working now. Im not sure yet how I like the Creamy resin, but thought I should come change the bad review I gave it.

I love this resin. I first used it around 2 years ago and since have stopped bothering with any others for anything beyond just test prints. Its not the cheapest available, but has been reliable and really tough once cured, for a UV resin. I do mix 1 part Sirayatech Tenacious into 5 parts of Fast when printing miniatures with particularly small or thin details. But I no longer think of my printed minis as being any more fragile than purchased plastic ones and treat them the same way.

Im pretty new to resin printing and Ive tried 5 different resins from different brands so far. This Sirayatech fast grey is far stronger and more flexible than the basic resins Ive used. The drawback to this is it can be a bit more difficult to remove supports, and must be printed with slower lift speeds than Ive achieved with other resins, its worth it for the added strength though. Holds detail very well, not quite as good as phrozen 4k, but better than Anycubic standard and standard+. For reference my perfect setting for accuracy on a photon M3 is 40um layer height 1.8s exposure, 3/3mm lift height 40/80mm/m lift speed, 80/40mm/m retract speed. 4 burn in layers at 24s exposure. Im working my way up on speeds, Im sure I can print faster, but the 180-240mm/s I was using with the phrozen resin failed and Ive only validated this one at slow speeds so far.

This resin is the best Resin that I have used. Previously having used Anycubic eco clear, and an elegoo resin. No matter the settings my prints would fail, even when using the recommended settings from the manufacturer. This resin has a close to 100% success rate for me. I do get some layers of resin that seem to be printed as a half sheet. But that is most likely an error with my Anycubic Photon Zero, but cant be sure. Overall this is the resin I always recommend

Im in the middle of an engineering project (basically a custom RC plane), and needed some small, precise parts that still need to take decently significant loads. Of course print quality and resolution is a more a matter of what printer you have, but I can say this stuff printed fantastically on my Photon Mono S with the settings recommended by Siraya Tech (you can find a spreadsheet on their website). The parts that I got are incredibly strong. I know this is an ABS-like filament, but Ive legitimately gotten better performance out of these than actual ABS from an FDM printer. That is most likely because printing orientation does not matter nearly as much, so the parts turn out mostly isotropic (equal strength in all directions). Ill describe some of the cases I used this for below. MY USE CASES: One of the parts was a stepper motor gear (28BYJ-48) that needed to deal with up to 0.1N*m of torque. I can tell after a lot of use, the section that meshes with the stepper pin has worn down from perfectly tight, to having maybe 3-5 degrees of slack, but its still perfectly usable. Many of the parts require linkages between them, so I printed 5mm pins. In my case, I had to reduce the size of the pins to about 95% to avoid clearance issues, but once they were in place the pins had very little friction while still providing very tight joints. Additionally, those pins could handle a surprising amount of shear force. I tested with a 5kg weight, so statically thats about 2.5MPa, but I also drop tested with that rig, so it could have easily reached 25MPa at one point. CLEANING: Specifically regarding this resin, you have to empty and clean your vat within 2 days if you dont plan on printing again. This stuff will separate into layers in about that time and becomes harder to clean off the vat. Also, water curing has yielded good results for me. If youve never resin printed before this part is for you, otherwise move along: Cleaning the prints is quite a hassle. They come out coated in liquid uncured resin which is, in the case of this resin, definitely a nasty skin irritant and potentially toxic if ingested (most resins are). Youll need LOTS of isopropyl or denatured alcohol, at least like 2 or 3 tubs or large tupperware containers, lots of paper towels, definitely more gloves than your printer comes with, and some way to get rid of the fumes. The alcohol is smelly enough, but this resin is definitely nasty stuff to be around. You have to be very careful not to get it on your skin or other surfaces (as it is quite drippy off the printer). With this resin, I got the best results by cleaning with alcohol from a spray bottle, then rinsing in water for 30 seconds, and then submerging in a cleaner tub of water before leaving in the sun (for 45 minutes) or shining with a bright UV light (1 minute or more, flipping the part with tweezers). I tend to keep one tupperware container for the alcohol cleaning process, which is very thick with uncured resin, one container for dirty rinse water, and one for clean water (and a bonus extra container to place all my contaminated tools and paper towels). I can usually run with this setup for several prints without changing out the liquids, which is nice because you CANNOT wash this stuff down the drain (unless you want even more micro-plastics in the ocean), and it absolutely has to be cured before you dispose of it. I typically save my 2-liter bottles and old mouthwash bottles, dump everything into those, and leave them out in the sun for a day before putting in the trash. CONCLUSION: If you can deal with the hassle of cleaning and PROPERLY discarding of the waste, then this resin produces results that you simply cannot get with other printing methods. Sure, FDM printing is less toxic and usually easier to get larger prints with, but the precision and speed of resin printing is unmatched. Usually that comes at the cost of poor physical proteries, but with this resin, you can get really small, precise parts with fantastic physical properties.

Siraya Navy Grey is the best resin available for 3d printing miniatures. It shows incredible levels of detail, cures to a perfect matte finish, and doesn’t get brittle unlike most ABS-like resins I’ve used. This resin produces gorgeous, professional looking prints every time, at any layer thickness. Once you get your settings dialed in, you’ll never use another resin again. It costs a little more, but when you print with it you’ll know why.