Thread Repair Tool, File, Chase, Restore, Repair, and Clean Internal and External Thread: Male, Female, Inch, Metric and Pipe Thread (RT1) (3/8 Dia. Head x 2 Length x 1/8 Arbor) by Rotary Thread

If you have to repair threads, this is the tool you need, my only suggestion is order the larger one, also do not add pressure to the tool lay it in the damaged threads lightly run along threads,

Although I was shocked by how small it is - it saved a damaged 3/4 threaded rod I had already welded to a bracket. I used a Dremel and magnification and was able within a few minutes to get the nut to travel the full length of the rod. ONE LIMITATION is this works best where you can get the tool perpendicular to the threads being repaired. Even using a Dremel extension I had to work at a slight angle 6 from the end of the rod which wasnt a problem due to the large threads I was fixing but it could be an issue on finer threads.

I have to say, I was skeptical but this tool really got me out of a bind! I was rebuilding a rearend on a car and somewhere along the line the threads by the hubs were damaged. I could not get the nut to start and it was clear to see the malformed threads. After going over the threads a few times with this bit in a Dremel, the nut went right on. Saved me a ton of rework and a trip to the machine shop - or having to purchase a massive die. The price is a no-brainer, I highly recommend.

Works exactly how the description said it would.

Not easy to use...maybe for bigger thread would work ..but the wheel axle thread it didnt

Works great! Was really easy to use in my dremel.

Im a mechanic. Damaged threads are just part of the job sometimes. The case that brought me in contact with this tool was a spindle on the rear end of a Dana 80 truck axle. It would have required a $200 3 threading die. I decided to try this tool. I took something that looked beyond repair and transformed it to the point where the large lock nut spun on by hand. It takes some skill. Its not a toilet plunger. You need to have a steady hand and a good Dremel tool but the payoff is quite impressive. Its a tool anyone who works on anything threaded should have. It saved my butt and a buttload of money as well.

Its very rare these days that things actually work, and this thing worked. Saved me $985!. We have a firetruck and one of the hose reels threads had corroded to the point of no return. The replacement cost was extremely expensive as the thread is attached to one piece and can not be replaced. I gave this thing a try as a hail-mary and it actually worked. Half of the threads were on the backside that I couldnt see so I just followed the front threads and prayed that i wouldnt jump over a thread. Followed it all the way back around and kept going. Used a little Brakleen to clean off the grit and the coupler fit right on first time around. I still cant believe it.

Ruined the threads on a crankshaft and this fixed them

I removed the grab rails off my sailboat to remove layers of varnish and then apply teak oil before re-installing. The nature of these grab rails are that they have 7 stud bolts on each of the two rails and they firmly attach the rails to the top of the cabin - The studs pass thru drilled holes in the Fiberglas and then washer, lock washer and nut hold the rails firmly on top of the cabin. The bolt head end of the stud is not visible - It is inside the top of the rail and wood plugs contoured to the top of the rail hide the bolt heads. These studs should never have to be removed from inside the rail and to do is a chore since the plug would have to be drilled out and a new one installed and contouredmto the rail. Initially, when I removed the nuts from the studs inside the cabin, one of the nuts was had to unthread from the stud and the stud started to rotate within the rail. So, I had to use pliers to hold the stud tight and another set of pliers to unthread the nut. When it was time to re-install the nut, I could not thread it onto the stud. My pliers had ruined the lower threads. I was considering using a diamond cutoff wheel on my Drexel to remove the lower threads but that would leave few threads available to re-install the nut and besides The nut was had to unthread it initially, so I would still be face with that problem as well. I then discovered the EZThread 382 searching the web and Amazon for solutions either by buying a different type of fastener to clamp to the existing threads but then I came across this tool to repair existing threads. The 382 mini-grinder tool was easy to use. It just about 1-2 minutes of use, I was able to get the nut back on. But other threads made it hard to completely re-install the washers and nut, so I tweaked addl threads and kept testing how easy it was to completely install the nut. After only another few minutes of tweaking the threads, the nut washers and nut were able to be re-installed easily. Since I was now able to rethread the nut all the way up to the inside cabin top, the friction fit at the bolt head kept the stud from rotating within the rail and I was able to torque the nut fine. So, this tool not only repaired the initial threads to get the nut on but tweaking the rest of the threads enabled me to utilize the stud, get a tight fit, without having to replace the stud which would have been a much longer repair and would have required labor to replace and contour a new plug on the outside of the rail. This is a great tool ! I am telling all my friends about it !