Thread Repair Tool, File, Chase, Restore, Repair, and Clean Internal and External Thread: Male, Female, Inch, Metric and Pipe Thread (RT1) (3/8 Dia. Head x 2 Length x 1/8 Arbor) by Rotary Thread

If you have to repair threads, this is the tool you need, my only suggestion is order the larger one, also do not add pressure to the tool lay it in the damaged threads lightly run along threads,

Great tool to fix and reform threards that may be damaged, rusty or very gunked up.

I have to say, I was skeptical but this tool really got me out of a bind! I was rebuilding a rearend on a car and somewhere along the line the threads by the hubs were damaged. I could not get the nut to start and it was clear to see the malformed threads. After going over the threads a few times with this bit in a Dremel, the nut went right on. Saved me a ton of rework and a trip to the machine shop - or having to purchase a massive die. The price is a no-brainer, I highly recommend.

Cuts fast use with care. Quick

Works great! Was really easy to use in my dremel.

This thing is great, only used twice for one application, so cant speak for longevity. The shank is stepped to go in both a drill or a rotary tool which is handy. The finishing cut is great for what it is, this is poor/lazy mans tap and die set. Works amazingly on make threads. Little difficult on female threads but only because they are more difficult to reach. If it takes a year to wear out Im coming running back to buy another.

Although I was shocked by how small it is - it saved a damaged 3/4 threaded rod I had already welded to a bracket. I used a Dremel and magnification and was able within a few minutes to get the nut to travel the full length of the rod. ONE LIMITATION is this works best where you can get the tool perpendicular to the threads being repaired. Even using a Dremel extension I had to work at a slight angle 6 from the end of the rod which wasnt a problem due to the large threads I was fixing but it could be an issue on finer threads.

I removed the grab rails off my sailboat to remove layers of varnish and then apply teak oil before re-installing. The nature of these grab rails are that they have 7 stud bolts on each of the two rails and they firmly attach the rails to the top of the cabin - The studs pass thru drilled holes in the Fiberglas and then washer, lock washer and nut hold the rails firmly on top of the cabin. The bolt head end of the stud is not visible - It is inside the top of the rail and wood plugs contoured to the top of the rail hide the bolt heads. These studs should never have to be removed from inside the rail and to do is a chore since the plug would have to be drilled out and a new one installed and contouredmto the rail. Initially, when I removed the nuts from the studs inside the cabin, one of the nuts was had to unthread from the stud and the stud started to rotate within the rail. So, I had to use pliers to hold the stud tight and another set of pliers to unthread the nut. When it was time to re-install the nut, I could not thread it onto the stud. My pliers had ruined the lower threads. I was considering using a diamond cutoff wheel on my Drexel to remove the lower threads but that would leave few threads available to re-install the nut and besides The nut was had to unthread it initially, so I would still be face with that problem as well. I then discovered the EZThread 382 searching the web and Amazon for solutions either by buying a different type of fastener to clamp to the existing threads but then I came across this tool to repair existing threads. The 382 mini-grinder tool was easy to use. It just about 1-2 minutes of use, I was able to get the nut back on. But other threads made it hard to completely re-install the washers and nut, so I tweaked addl threads and kept testing how easy it was to completely install the nut. After only another few minutes of tweaking the threads, the nut washers and nut were able to be re-installed easily. Since I was now able to rethread the nut all the way up to the inside cabin top, the friction fit at the bolt head kept the stud from rotating within the rail and I was able to torque the nut fine. So, this tool not only repaired the initial threads to get the nut on but tweaking the rest of the threads enabled me to utilize the stud, get a tight fit, without having to replace the stud which would have been a much longer repair and would have required labor to replace and contour a new plug on the outside of the rail. This is a great tool ! I am telling all my friends about it !

I bought it to use in my shop in place of a thread file. Its smaller than I expected but thats a good thing. Has been useful and effective.

I bought this to clean up the threads on a part where the threads were distorted by welding. This tool cleaned them up nicely in a matter of minutes. I also used it to clean up the rusty threads on our main drain clean-out fitting which was pretty messed up after nearly fifty years. Fifteen minutes later the threads on the drain and cap were cleaned up and the cap securely screwed on. I would suggest when working on heavily damaged threads that you stop occasionally to flush the rust or metal particles out of the threads. And no matter what, flush them out when you are done.