Amana Tool - 55229 Carbide Tipped 82° Countersink with Adjustable Depth Stop & No-

The mechanism is high quality. The thrust bearing is a little cheap. As it ships, it (may) scuff your wood. This is easily fixed by placing painters tape before drilling. The tape adds enough friction to engage the thrust bearing. Problem solved. The friction bearing may loosen up in time. Aside from that minor problem, it works flawlessly. I would buy it again.

Very well built

Nice clean cut on countersink, no discernable wobbling, and no marks. As a carpenter of 25+ years, I wish Id bought it long ago. The cheaper countersink bits either fall apart, are not depth adjustable, dont leave clean cuts, or leave marks. Those can be fine for occasional use, but I just finished a project with hundreds of holes and this bit was worth the investment.

Use this but one time and you wont ever be without it again - super easy and foolproof for countersinking screws

These seem to be all the rage, and the concept is fantastic. However, Ive bent two or 3 bits, even in the drill press. Im not sure what the issue is, as the bits seem to be bending near where the set screw retains the bit. Kind of disappointing, especially for the expensive price point

Exelente, I use this bit tomake 1500 holes in hardwood, brazilian cherry and cumaru and still works like new, still sharp

Ive only used this for a few holes, but thought I would share my initial opinion. Ive used several countersinks on wood screws and Im primarily concerned with how smooth the outer edge of the hole is and how repeatable the countersink depth is. I have tried the Snappy, the cheap Ryobi, and a few others. The best I have found until now are sold by Lee Valley and made by an Israeli company. With this product I obtained clean holes with no edge breakout on pine plywood. I looked at the package and it says made in Israel. I suppose Amana has a deal with the same company. I did not test counterboring as you would for a plug covering the screw. No scratching of the surface as the collar does not rotate. If you adjust the depth stop, you have a perfect hole that just fits the screw head every time. The only downside to this product is that the collar completely blocks your view of the progress of the countersink. You are drilling blind at this stage unless you can move your head down to see under the workpiece. Just takes some getting used to. The depth is controlled by the collar, so you dont really need to see whats happening. You do need to really slow down the drill as the countersink portion is engaged. In general, countersinks like to cut slow if you want a smooth edge. I try for about 200 RPM for a countersink of this size. If you dont want to spend the money on this, a pretty good hole can be obtained with the Ryobi set AFTER you hone both sides of all the cutting edges. An Ez-lap or similar DMT tool or small sharpening card is good for that. (and they are diamond grit, so they will also sharpen this countersink if you drill enough holes to dull it) This countersink product series includes several drill diameters. This one will clearance drill for the threads on a #8 modern wood or deck screw. Consider the screws you are going to use and whether they have a relieved shank that will extend through the top workpiece. I will probably buy a 1/8 one for that case. Also, I learned that wood screws, at least the GRK brand, are 90 degree heads. Sheet metal screws and machine screws to imperial (U.S.) standards are 82 degrees. Machine screws for very thin parts (aircraft or electronics sheet metal) are sometimes 100 degrees. Amana offers 82 and 90 degree versions. If you are using a drill press, very good results in wood can be obtained with a machinists zero-flute Weldon countersink set. They are HSS and must be sharpened occasionally with a small stone in a moto-tool or die grinder. Those will not counterbore for a plug, only countersink. Machinery suppliers also sell one-flute countersinks that will do pretty good, and solid carbide countersinks. Hand drilling with the common six-flute hardware-store countersinks either leads to burning through the wood since they are not sharp, or more commonly wobbling in the hole and chattering. If youve read this far, you are now a countersink expert... Edit: If your collar is turning after contact, try light machine oil under the retaining ring. Made a difference for me.

I’m building a porch swing that needed about a hundred silicon bronze screws mounted flush with the oak surface. After messing around with an old B&D countersink bit with a collar that kept slipping, I ordered this bit. I’ve used Amana router bits with success and found this item to be no less impressive. It worked flawlessly to countersink to exact depth repeatedly. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? YES.

Very clean cutting and collar does not mar surfaces. Used it on pre-finished maple plywood and performed flawlessly.

My grandson said it was just what he needed and seemed to be please with it overall.