Kasa Smart HS100 WiFi Smart Plug, Classic 1-Pack, White

<Update 6.20.2016> I love these units & cannot wait (though Im going to have to anyway) for the HS200 TP Link Smart Switch (In-wall light switch) to come to the market per their latest software update note under the Whats New. Ive had my first TP Link Smart Plug (see the original post below) for about 6 weeks now, my second for about 4 weeks & they are working flawlessly. As mentioned in my OP, I wanted a unit for my entertainment center & have since received & installed it. Drove my college student (whos home for the summer) nuts as the power was not on in the mornings. For the 4 weeks since having the second unit (I called it the TV power), she could not figure out how to get power to the TV. She finally unplugged the power strip from the smart plug & plugged it directly into the wall below the HS100. So I finally showed the family how to work them (mainly just so they wouldnt keep unplugging & plugging in the power chords). On another note, I finally received my Amazon Echo (just in time for Fathers day, wahoo!) and so I now have the Smart Plugs hooked up to the World Wide Web, the Internet super highway, the Internet of Things, etc., etc. I understand the frustrations some people have posted regarding the connection to the Echo & I believe I have figured out why. Amazons Alexa App is in need of some serious TLC. TP Links Kasa App is doing what its suppose to do. In my original post, I had a small issue with connectivity of the software to the units which still exists but not near as rough since the latest software update. Still, when youre not connected to your LAN (because youve been away or simply have the WiFi / Data off) & want to adjust something in the schedules or simply turn the lamp on, connecting wirelessly sometimes has a hiccup. Each unit has to ping constantly (every 1.5 to 2 seconds as it was explained to me) to your LAN to let the router know the unit is there. When you connect your phone to the LAN, you may just connect in between those pings in which case the software on the phone may come back & say There are no connected devices. It does offer a pre-configured devices ribbon which you can select to initiate the units connectivity through the smart phone (see the uploaded pics). After selecting the ribbon, you have to select the little plus button on the right of each device until you have the no unsaved devices screen, then your units are active for you (5 stars now that I understand the software & realize that most of the frustrations are not the fault of TP Link). After I finally created an account with TP Link (all you need is an email address & a password, no personal information is required) I went back into the Kasa App & set the first unit to remote. In the Alexa App, I had to select the Skills in the menu & do a search for Kasa (there are over 123 PAGES of skills & no file management system in the Alexa App). After getting Kasa as a skill & initiating it, I then had to go to the Smart Home in the menu & select the Kasa skill to find the HS100 Smart Plug. This is where the frustrations started for me. The skill was not there. I know I had found it & selected the skill & initiated it but it was not listed. So I went back to the list & did another search for the Kasa (its on like page 71 & each time you go into the list, it starts on page 1). After the third time & about an hour plus, I discovered a search box where I could type the name Kasa & search & it would find about half a dozen skills to choose from, duh! What an idiot. Lucky we have the skills name otherwise its a page by page search until you find what your looking for. Anyway, I digress. The skill was not showing up in the Alexas Smart Home directory. I was about to put the phone down & walk away before something got seriously injured when I realized I had a couple updates to finish on my phone. One of these updates was a 34 megabyte update. Ive read that if you have a decent size (dont ask me what decent size means, I figured 20 meg or better) update, you should reboot your system after updating. So after my update I rebooted my phone & figured ok, Im cooled down a bit, Ill try the Alexa App one more time. Opening the App, I went straight to the Smart Home directory & whadyaknow, the Kasa skill was there. Finally, a step forward. Opening the skill, I can now (finally) have the Kasa skill find the HS100 Smart Plug. Picking the find devices gave me an immediate you have no internet connection message. Then I walked away! This is a long story but I promise it has a happy ending (well, sort of). A few hours of thinking about it I came back to try again. I figured perhaps because the HS100s connect via 2.4 GHz & the Echo connects to the more active 5 GHz, the two are not communicating. So I purposely connected my phone to the 2.4 GHz, opened the Kasa app & verified I could connect to each of my Smart Plugs. Then while leaving the Kasa app open, I went back into the Amazon Alexa app, into the Smart Home directory, & picked the find devices once again. The you have no internet connection message immediately popped up. So I figured the only way I could find the skill to begin with was to reboot the phone so I rebooted once again. I forgot to connect to the 2.4 GHz & open the Kasa app to verify my units were accessible, I just went straight to the Alexa app and after picking the find devices button it came back with a message, searching for devices. This can take up to 20 seconds. Wahoo! It worked, I found my HS100 named the Lamp. Now there are three ways of turning the Lamp on. I can say Alexa, turn on the lamp and Alexa says, ok and the lamp comes on. I can push the power button on the front of the unit and the lamp comes on. And I can wait for the scheduled time and the lamp comes on. These units are AWESOME!!! Of course I had set only the Lamp to remote in the Kasa app so I had to go back to the Kasa app & change the TV power to remote so I could find it in the Alexa app. I had to go through rebooting the phone a couple more times to get my second unit connected with the Echo but I am now connected & my college kid is happy to say Alexa, turn on the TV power so she can watch a movie instead of getting a summer job, ggrrr! ____Original Post____ This is a true product review & I paid full price for the TP Link Smart Plug (HS100, no Energy Monitoring) unit. So with that said, let me tell you my current thoughts on this product after playing with it a mere four days. I dont yet have an echo (its on order) but am preparing for its arrival. So in the mean time I figured Id try this on my local LAN before submitting my so called Smart house to the wiles of the internet. The unit itself is easy enough to work with. You can use it as a single outlet power switch & simply push the button to turn it on and off, much like a six outlet power strip with a switch, but this would be a single outlet. But I want a timer control switch that will automatically turn on at a certain time & off at a certain time & I want to (in the future) have that timer & simply override it with a phrase, Alexa, turn on the lamp. So I needed to connect it to the LAN for starters. After following the instructions for downloading the software (Kasa for Mobile) from Google play I began my assault. My phone automatically connects to my 5 GHz WiFi so I had to manually change it to the 2.4 GHz as this frequency is the only one this Smart plug will work with currently. Reasons are listed on the website (tp-link.us) Now there are two buttons on this unit; a small button on the very top with a light grey gear icon on it is for its configuration (visibility) when connecting to your phone via the local LAN and the other button in the front just above the outlet is a two tone LED light/power button. This is the button you push to simply turn the power strip on/off. This button flashes orange/green when you first plug it in which tells you its ready to begin the connection phase. The app found the plug pretty quickly & began asking me the questions needed to control this plug like what to call it (important to name it something unique to the situation). I called it the lamp. What, Its the only lamp in my family room & I dont intend on connecting any other lamps in the house to the Echo so ... Alexa, turn on the lamp will work very nicely. I can go back & change the name of the plug if I need to. The app then asked for the password to my LAN so my phone can connect to the plug. This is where I screwed everything up cause I couldnt remember what the password was. After resetting the plug a couple times (I now know the reset button works) I got the unit setup & the lamp was on. The software, while easy enough to understand is a bit too simplistic in its presentation which leads to a little frustration in finding what you are searching for. Lemme esplain. I wanted the plug as a timer so I needed to get a schedule setup. You need to tap on the lamp on the left side of the apps screen as the right side is the power switch for controlling the plug via phone. Then you have to pic the three little dots to open a menu so you can pic the schedule selection button. I suppose this is necessary cause if you have several plugs, you will need to determine which one you are working with and there are a few options in menu as well. So I set the schedule for an early morning on & mid morning off, Monday thru Friday. Then created a second schedule for Sunset on & late evening off, Monday thru Sunday. Now mind you this is connected to the local LAN which means if you want a current Sunset time, you have to have your phone connected to the unit to get it as the current Sunset changes daily & the unit needs a connection to the Internet to get that time. Duh! No wonder the lamp was coming on early, the Sunset time was current when I programmed it but is now later than when the lamp comes on as my phone is not connected to the LAN to feed the unit the current Sunset time. :-P A bit of a frustration is when you have a cloudy or stormy afternoon & it gets dark well before sunset. So I wanted to override the current setting & turn the lamp on. Well low & behold when I opened the app, it said there were no current devices configured, would you like to configure one now? Then a little popup display said You have had a previous unit configured which you can access after setting up a new device. After several minutes of getting out of the app, going back in, getting out, disconnecting the phone from the LAN, reconnecting, disconnecting, rebooting the phone, reconnecting, I was ready to unplug the unit & plug the lamp into the wall socket. I thought, All I want to do is turn on the lamp. How lazy am I that I cant reach up and turn the knob, I have to have a Smart Plug. BUT, I wanted the Smart Plug for the timer function. So I was going to Add Device for the fourth time. After picking the Smart Plug icon & giving it a name (the lamp, how original) the app found my previous device & the schedule I was able to turn on the lamp (losing 1 star for this). Havent had an issue with it since but its been a mere four days. On another note, I want to comment on others posts regarding this unit. There is a question/post about why it will not turn on a TV. Unless you have one of those old tube style TVs with a manual toggle switch that you can keep in the ON position, this will not turn on a TV. This Smart Plug is designed to simply deliver power to the TV. As I mentioned earlier, in its most basic form this unit is a one outlet power strip, that is all. The specifications of this unit are for a 100-120 Volt AC outlet with a 15amp load maximum. I have not overloaded this unit to see what would happen but my current wiring for my entertainment system (TV, DVD Player, Wii, etc) are all on one six outlet power strip on a 15amp breaker & they have not tripped the breaker yet. With that said, there is a lot of residual power being leaked by these devices while in a dormant state. I plan to order another TP-Link Smart Plug and schedule a time for these devices to receive power so they can be used. They will be off during the night & when Im away from the home, powered when I am home so I can use them. Another post or two or four mentions this unit is large & covers both wall outlets. While technically this is true, this is also technically not true. This unit has a lip on the back side where the prongs plug into the wall. A standard two prong plug can fit nicely under this unit & both seat perfectly (see the pics I loaded) while anything larger will not. You just have to plug the two prong plug into the bottom outlet first, then plug this unit into the top outlet. In the pics, I have my iClever 6 port charging station plugged into the bottom outlet (need constant power to a charging station) & the lamp via the Smart Plug in the top outlet.

During the month of December I purchased three of these items. Two were hardware version 2.0. One of them was hardware version 1.0. Supposedly, according to TP-Link, the only difference between the two versions is the newer logo. I beg to differ. Both items that are hardware version 2.0 work perfectly with no issues. The one that is hardware version 1.0 works terribly. Its hard to connect to my network. It falls off my network all the time. And its nearly impossible to get it back on my network when it falls off. The plug is literally 10 feet away from my wireless router. The other two that work properly are farther away from the router. If I had purchased only one item and it was hardware version 1.0, I would have concluded these plugs suck in performance. If I had received only one plug that was hardware version 2.0 I would be offering nothing but praise. But, because I received two hardware version 2.0 plugs and one hardware version 1.0 plug, it was easy to conclude there was a tremendous difference between the two hardware versions. You can determine the hardware version in the app used to control the devices. If you have a hardware version 1.0 plug and are having problems with it, I highly encourage you to return it and get the hardware version 2.0. I can only hope the replacement in transit to me right now will be hardware version 2.0. If not its going right back to Amazon.

Let me start by saying, when I first installed these they worked great. I have four of them. The reason I bought was to help my mother who has a hard time getting around. We loved showing them off to friends and family. Soon the love turned to frustration. They are easy to set up, my Wi-Fi had no problems finding and set up was fast. I put the app. on my phone and Fire tablet. Even setup groups to turn all on and off at same time. I could control while away from the house or using everyones wi-fi or cell tower. The problem is they continue to lose connection to Wi-Fi and then Alexa will not control. App says local only, meaning you have to get your phone to turn on and off, and you have to be in the house on your Wi-Fi. I have strong Wi-Fi signal at my house. You can get 300 plus yards away and still get a signal. I live in a rural area, no neighbors. So there is no other Wi-Fi interference. Other problems, re-setting them all the time. You have to delete one by one and sometimes the app will not let you do that. Why cant there be a simple reset? Then when you go to reinstall it, can not find. You can do it manually, then that is hit or miss. I have had them for over six months. I reset all of them last night 12-2-16 and today when I woke up two were off line. I really want them to work. Talking to Alexa is a fun way to control lights, but im getting tired of hearing Alexa say sorry I cant find table light and so on. Dont waste your money on this. I am curious to know if the people who left good reviews, did it right away or waited a few weeks to try out? I always wait a few months before I do. I am ready to recreate the scene from Office Space with the fax machine. Q, generic response from TP-Link, Ill update if they have any real answer to the problems. UPDATE 12/14/16 I did a reset on all 12/4/16 as of the 14th they are all working fine. So 10 days with no problems. Lets see how long we can go. Also for the people how say plugs are to big and block furniture. Try Power Extension Cord Cable, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The short version.....these work great and these should be your choice in Smart Plugs. Longer Version: When I started out with the home automation stuff, after purchasing an Echo, my first purchases were the Wemo plugs......that was a mistake. I have written a review on those and they have only gotten worse since I wrote it, due to Wemo updates which have only served to make both the plugs and App less usable. As far as the TP-Link plugs (and I have also purchased and installed TP-Link Switches), these work great and, while the App could be a little more user friendly, thus only 4 Stars, they so far out-distance the Wemo stuff that the decision on which to buy is, in my opinion, a no-brainer. The set-up process is, I guess, standard for these types of devices, but it worked flawlessly with each of the 4 plugs and 5 switches I have purchased. They are reliable and I have had absolutely no issues with them as far as function and reliability. As I said, the App is a bit clunky and could be more usable, but it is not THAT bad and, again, completely blows away Wemos in functionality. They also all work flawlessly with my Amazon Echo with minimal delay. As a matter of fact, I have made the decision to replace the 3 original Wemo plugs I bought with TP-Link plugs because the Wemos have become unusable in 80% of their function and completely unusable for a lot of uses for which I purchased them. I apologize if this seems more like a comparison report, but I figure that if you are reading the reviews, you are trying to decide which Smart Plug brand to purchase. TP-Links would be my very clear recommendation.

The TP-Link is a nifty device once you get it up and running. I bought it specifically to start using with the Amazon Echo Dot 2nd gen with Alexa. The directions in the box are very simple but not as obvious as they should be with the two important points below. Before I go any further, this device will only work with the 2.4ghz wi-fi signal. It is very important for you to know your current equipment, that would have saved me a lot of frustration. It turns out my AT&T router will emit 2.4 or 5ghz, not both at the same time. After talking with an agent things improved rather quickly. One other important note, when you are trying to connect your phone via the Kasa app, you need to be within 3 feet, 2 is even better. Again, would have been nice to know upfront. If I had known those tidbits upfront, my total time to connect to my phone and using it with the Kasa app, 5 minutes tops. Connecting and voice controlling with Alexa, another 5 minutes tops. I am physically disabled and must admit, I am very thrilled to be independently controlling device. Not knowing how well the TP-Llink would work, I only purchased one at $22 vs regularly $45+. I am regretting that decision now. If it holds up well over time, this will be the first of many more to come. If it was clearer prior to purchasing it about only operating on 2.4ghz and a 2-foot range from my phone during the initial setup, I would have given it a 5 star. After all, I do really like it and it works great with the Amazon Dot 2nd gen with Alexa. It shouldnt be left out, that the Kasa app on the phone has plenty of options for those not interested in voice control. If over time things change, youll be the second to know.

These plugs work great. They are a little bulky but more affordable than other brands. I have at least 7 smart plugs and 6 smart switches in my home. Set them all up in the Kasa app. Enable kasa in the Amazon app. Search for device. Make groups. Easy. When you want to put things on timers, open the Kasa app and use the schedule feature which is individual to each device (click the device to open the options in Kasa). I have installed 2 and 3 switches in the same gang box. You will not use the TP link plate cover. It makes for a tight squeeze to install multiple ones. You can install multiple ones and even leave some original switches. I found this information about installing switches hard to find so Im sharing. Wiring multiple switches into your multi gang box - the green ground wires from the switches need to be wired all together into the ground. They will all be connected to each other and to your house. The white neutral wires need to do the same - all of them will feed into the neutral white bundle coming from your house. You will probably need to do like I did and buy larger twist on wire connectors/caps. The hardest part is fitting all those wires and the bulk of the switch back into your box, and then aligning the plate perfectly - without overtightening and breaking your plate. Take my advice. Buy yourself a new nylon unbreakable electrical plate (unless you plan to install a new larger gang box in your wall which is a huge PITA). If you install multiple switches at the same time, you can finish installation (I do suggest turning your breaker back on before putting on the faceplate to make sure they all work) and then use Kasa to find the new devices. Just write down the IP addresses of each device. Kasa will show all the new devices and you can set them up one at a time knowing the IP address (which is on a sticker on the front of the switch).

I bought this to control a TV & Satellite box but after reading some others reviews I realized that it would not do the job I was expecting it to do in that capacity. Im grateful and thankful to those people for their reviews detailing why it wont work to control your TV (basically the device thinks its unplugged from the wall if turned off from a smart plug so turning it back on means rebooting tvs & satellite boxes) before I started unplugging and setting things back up only to find my dreams dashed. Seriously, search TV in the reviews search and see their knowledge and save yourself the hassle. I figured I might as well try plugging an awkward to access lamp into one of the two plugs I bought before I initiated a return and was happy to find that the set up and connection process was effortless and fast. The app was easy to use on my phone, I literally just plugged the plug in, waited for lights to turn colors per the apps on screen directions and within a few minutes, it worked. I then connected my Google Home to it in another seamless & simple set up connection process and now I no longer have to contort my arm to find the switch for this lamp, I just say Hey Google, turn on the lights and on it goes. Theres an audible click when it goes on and off that comes from the plug itself, its a satisfying sound to me. So I was bummed I couldnt use these for what I intended, but am thrilled that I was able to simplify something and expand my Google Homes capabilities. This was my first Smart Home purchase and Im very pleased with the ease of this system. So trust the reviews, dont use this for your TV, but do use it for lamps or other appliances that dont need to reboot to be used. Also trust us that youre going to want the Mini plug if you want second outlet access. This one hangs too low over the bottom outlet if you plug into the top. Lesson learned. If I ever decide to add more smart plugs, I will go with the mini.

Wow, I got this thing installed in less than 5 minutes. The app was very user friendly and detail with step by step setup instructions, except they got the App name wrong on the manual, it did not match the name in the App Store, however the icon was correct. So make sure you look at the app icon, not the name and install the correct version. To test it I have tried to unplug it and it relinked with my router within seconds. So far very reliable, after testing a few events and the power all turned on and off at the right time. For those who are unfamiliar with setting up schedule using the concept of events, just remember to program the ON event first followed by creating a second event to turn the power OFF, total of 2 events needed to turn you light on and off, otherwise it would just stay ON all the time. One event does one action On or OFF but not both. The smart plug works as follows: When it is powered and connected to the Wifi, it awaits an event signal ON or OFF and memorizes schedule(s) set with the App even when unplugged. but if there is no Wifi signal it will not be able to execute the event signal and the device will be at the state it was before the Wifi is disconnected. So for example, if you scheduled an ON event at 9am and an OFF event at 10am but if there was a power failure at 9:50am and came back at 10:05am, it would not have received the OFF commend at 10am and therefore would have remained in the state of ON until it receives the next OFF command. If you are going to use this to power appliance that are dangerous if left on, this can not be a fool prove solution. This model is for up to 15A about 1500W device and it costs about $7 more compared to the mini one which handles only 10A at about 1000W.

UPDATE: back to five stars because these just wirk! i bought some ekticity ones to compare amd i couldnt get them to configure at all! order two more of these same day delivery and they went in like buttah. im happy npw. gave this 3stars because it WAS 5stars, until i had to deal with customer service, which was <1star, to say the least. i got a new router, got it all set up, it wouldnt find my smart plug. followed the instructions, which were just a futile loop, a dozen times, then came here, where it advertises customer support 24/7 with no link where to get it. googled their web page, held a reasonable anount of time, finally connected to a girl who had absolutely no idea what she was doing, and barely spoke english. spent a futile half hour during which i told her what i was doing step by step, instead of the other way around, and finally asked to speak to someone else. there was no one else. supervisor. hold. horrible music. i tried reconnecting a couple more times, nada. then i got the bright idea to set up another, brand new plug which i was planning on doing next, anyway, and voila! it picked up the new router fine. went back to reconfigure that old one and voila! it now picked up the new router fine. she came back on the line to tell me the supervisor was too busy, and i very slowly explained to her what i had done. i have very little confidence that she understood. takeaway: IF YOU WANT TO CHANGE THE ROUTER ON ONE OF THESE PLUGS, YOU FIRST HAVE TO SET UP A WHOLE BRAND NEW ONE. it will then pick up the new router settings and connect to it automaticaly when you go back and re-set up the old one. this has obvious advantages, to them, and very blatant disadvantages to the consumer. i have been buying these one at a time as i convert each room to smart and had planned to buy several more. now i will buy another brand.

The Good: Setup is a breeze. I had this thing up and running within 5 minutes. I didnt have to deal with port-forwarding from my router or any complicated setup process. If youre not very good with computer or technology, you should still be able to set this up without too much hassle. I did not connect this to an Alexa device, so I cant comment on how complex that process it. Im only using this as a way to remotely turn on/off an electronic device in my bedroom. The Bad: There is no web interface that you can access from a computer. The only way to control this device from via the Kasa app. It appears if you set up any customization, they are stored on Kasa servers. If this is truly the case, then this means if Kasa or your own internet connection are ever offline, so are these functions. Furthermore, because custom settings are stored remotely, the device has also opened up certain ports on your router for you, for communication between the device and the server. While this is good for people who arent technically-savvy, its bad for internet security. Personally, I wish that TP-Link would have made a more secure and less cloud-dependent version of the device. Id be willing to pay an extra $10 for that. As long as my home has a connection to the Kasa servers, though, the device appears to function flawlessly. One thing to note: Sometimes if you turn on the device remotely (via the app), the ON icon displayed in the app may not reflect that. Im not sure why. However, it appears the app pings for the status of the device every 10-15 seconds. So, if you hit ON and you dont see the ON icon on your app turn green, but you know for a fact that device is actually on, give it about 10-15 seconds to refresh and itll turn green.