2-Pack CR10 Z axis T8 Anti Backlash Spring Loaded Nut Elimination Gap Brass Nuts for Upgrade Ender 3 Ender 3s Ender 3 Pro V2 CR-10 Tornado 3D Printer 8mm Acme Threaded Rod (Nuts)

To use this, the holes did not match existing part that you must use. The machining was not complete, no holes in the middle section. Waiting for replacement. Not sure if this will do anything or not to help.

I was (am) having issues with my X gantry falling down between prints and thought this may be the fix. It still falls though, so IDK what to try now. Its a very annoying issue though. :/

Fit well on my ender printer. Good product so far

Even if you dont use the spring or have dual axis the fact that these are threaded makes thebprocess of using them far far wasier than struggling with trying to attack a nut to thebkther side of the stock version! I used these with a kit here on Amazon for a dual upgraded z-axis on my Ender 3 Pro. The backlash component seems to function but it is a major pain getting the spacing jussssst right for it to workz. Check out the yourube video by TH3D on proper installation of these things ( note it is far easier to get it right by taking your axis completely out of the machine first versus installing in situ).

Fits the stock z-axis bracket fine, but had a slight fitment issue with my second z-axis bracket. Filed the holes a bit bigger on the second bracket and it fit fine. Nuts might seem like they dont fit the lead screws at first. May take some persuasion to get them to seat into the threads on the lead screws.

Quality was ok but caused z-axis binding. Nice idea, but the experiment does not work.

This may actually fit an Ender-3, but it definitely doesnt fit a Voxelab Aquila. It is simply too big, like by a half a millimeter. I found Qworks fits.

Used this kit to upgrade the stability of the Z-axis on my Creality CR10S-Pro V2. Gantry kept sagging to one side when the power turned off. Installed these puppies and *poof* - no more tilt! I can press gently down on the frame and it stays put. The nice thing about these is that you dont have to cut the brass fittings to fit onto the frame- just remove the screws, compress each unit and install. Better have two sets of tweezers to hold the small parts when reinstalling, though. Also, if it doesnt screw onto the axis the first few times, no worries- its a precision part. Here are the steps I followed. 1. Gently unscrew the threaded rod from the frame. Remove the current brass fittings, set the screws aside in a safe place. A towel or small bowl is fine. 2. Rotate the brass collar slowly and as straight as possible until it screws on enough to stay put. Do not screw it on all the way. 3. Compress the rest of the fitting onto the part before continuing the rotation. The teeth should be locked into each other. 4. Secure the brass fitting to the frame of your machine using your screws, but flush the nuts with the underside of your frame before you finish securing your screws. 5. Make sure the top of your rod is flush with the top of the frame before you secure the collars to the motor. This will prevent the threads on your axis from being misaligned. Hope this helps!

Okay, think about a ruler hanging over the edge of a table 10 inches, its easy to press down and deflect the ruler with your finger because the rulers resistance at 10 inches is very low. Now if you draw the ruler in so that most of it is touching the table and only 1 inch is hanging over the table, it is very hard to deflect. **** Well, this is the issue with binding, not only the two screws that secure the bearing/backlash nut need to be loosened, but also the two screws for the adapter that hold the lead screw to the motor, and the screws that hold the motor to the 90 degree mounting plate. Loosen all six of these screws. Make sure the bearing/backlash nut is greased well and run your Z-stage all the way down to the limit switch and make sure it is resting against the limit switch when you tighten it down. **** Why? Because the lead screw flexes the least in this position, so we want the placement of all elements to favor running true at the limit switch. Like the ruler mentioned in the example above, the system could care less at the far end, the lead screw will flex and not put up a fight that far out, but closer to the limit switch when it gets short is where everything needs to be truest.

I tried, but they would not screw onto the 8/2 leadscrew on my Tenlog, and I didnt want to damage anything.