Amana Tool - 55229 Carbide Tipped 82° Countersink with Adjustable Depth Stop & No-

First one lasted 3years - not bad at all in my opinion.

The ability to drill stopped counter sink holes is a game changer for me. Ive been working on making fine furniture, and one of the things that has been an issue for me is consistency with countersunk screw holes.

I saw this product on a YouTube video did some research and ordered it. This thing is awesome and far out performs the countless other counter sink bits I own. Very well made and I love the ability to easliy adjust the depth of the countersink without having to second guess.

I build a lot of painted desks out of MDF and securing them with brads and screws are just the quickest assembly process. But its always been such a pain to work quick but ensure that I dont countersink the screw hole too deep, because then it takes too much work and time to fill, dry, sand, possibly fill again, and repeat. At least on MDF, the no marring feature worked perfectly and setting the countersink to only leave 1/16 of depth when the screw is fully seated is perfect. I can now countersink everything quickly and be sure that Im hitting the perfect depth. Will buy some more of these for the #8 screw as well.

I have wanted this Amana Tool 55227 countersink bit for a long time. I started using it right after it was delivered. This is exactly what I expected. My first few holes were perfect. I know I am going to enjoy adding this to my toolbox. If you need a countersink bit this is the one.

I’m building a porch swing that needed about a hundred silicon bronze screws mounted flush with the oak surface. After messing around with an old B&D countersink bit with a collar that kept slipping, I ordered this bit. I’ve used Amana router bits with success and found this item to be no less impressive. It worked flawlessly to countersink to exact depth repeatedly. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? YES.

Easy to use, easy to adjust, and works great.

Works perfectly. New favorite go to countersink. The angles are good and it is quick and easy to use. If you are having marks after using it. 1. Use it a few times on scrap wood to get the bearing to open up a bit and smooth out. 2. I found you are best to go quick with the drilling. You need to have firm pressure and speed to have it stop the outer shell quickly.

Ive only used this for a few holes, but thought I would share my initial opinion. Ive used several countersinks on wood screws and Im primarily concerned with how smooth the outer edge of the hole is and how repeatable the countersink depth is. I have tried the Snappy, the cheap Ryobi, and a few others. The best I have found until now are sold by Lee Valley and made by an Israeli company. With this product I obtained clean holes with no edge breakout on pine plywood. I looked at the package and it says made in Israel. I suppose Amana has a deal with the same company. I did not test counterboring as you would for a plug covering the screw. No scratching of the surface as the collar does not rotate. If you adjust the depth stop, you have a perfect hole that just fits the screw head every time. The only downside to this product is that the collar completely blocks your view of the progress of the countersink. You are drilling blind at this stage unless you can move your head down to see under the workpiece. Just takes some getting used to. The depth is controlled by the collar, so you dont really need to see whats happening. You do need to really slow down the drill as the countersink portion is engaged. In general, countersinks like to cut slow if you want a smooth edge. I try for about 200 RPM for a countersink of this size. If you dont want to spend the money on this, a pretty good hole can be obtained with the Ryobi set AFTER you hone both sides of all the cutting edges. An Ez-lap or similar DMT tool or small sharpening card is good for that. (and they are diamond grit, so they will also sharpen this countersink if you drill enough holes to dull it) This countersink product series includes several drill diameters. This one will clearance drill for the threads on a #8 modern wood or deck screw. Consider the screws you are going to use and whether they have a relieved shank that will extend through the top workpiece. I will probably buy a 1/8 one for that case. Also, I learned that wood screws, at least the GRK brand, are 90 degree heads. Sheet metal screws and machine screws to imperial (U.S.) standards are 82 degrees. Machine screws for very thin parts (aircraft or electronics sheet metal) are sometimes 100 degrees. Amana offers 82 and 90 degree versions. If you are using a drill press, very good results in wood can be obtained with a machinists zero-flute Weldon countersink set. They are HSS and must be sharpened occasionally with a small stone in a moto-tool or die grinder. Those will not counterbore for a plug, only countersink. Machinery suppliers also sell one-flute countersinks that will do pretty good, and solid carbide countersinks. Hand drilling with the common six-flute hardware-store countersinks either leads to burning through the wood since they are not sharp, or more commonly wobbling in the hole and chattering. If youve read this far, you are now a countersink expert... Edit: If your collar is turning after contact, try light machine oil under the retaining ring. Made a difference for me.

I have several countersink bits and this is, by far, the best one I have. A little pricey but you get what you pay for.