Dura-Block AF4400 Black Standard Sanding Block
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Dan Pullen
> 3 dayCaution when purchasing these, they light up and work great for two or (if your lucky ) three weeks Ive had to take my dash apart 3 times and I purchased them in March
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Joseph Attard
Greater than one weekGreat for the money
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Detail Guy
> 3 daygood quality
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Butch K
Greater than one weekCant beat a dura block. Different sizes for all needs.
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Nordic
> 3 dayJust what I needed to keep body lines sanded sharp.
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Ms. Celestine Walker III
Greater than one weekAs described
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melvin ray sanders
> 3 daydura block was not as advertised
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you and me agaisnt the world
> 3 dayworks good
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TBigATC
> 3 dayWorks well for picking up those spots a little larger than easily done with a standard hand sander. Rigid enough but not overly so as long as you dont apply too much pressure. Good to have handy.
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Matthew R
Greater than one weekI am by no means a proffesional when it comes to body work and paint. I have been able to get almost professional results though. (apply paint, sand off, apply again until its good) When I used body filler I was getting low and high spots that were so subtle I couldnt detect them in primer and sometimes not even in the base coat. It wasnt until I applied clear that I saw them and sometimes not even right away. I discovered the term block it out and found out that my small sanding block and fine grit paper wasnt adequate. I bought the adhesive roll of sand paper in 80 grit. It turns out that really low grit (course) paper does a way better job of making a flat surface. Starting with fine grit will just keep the contour of the repair. They use this up and down/right and left and at diagonal angles as well. Keep the block in the same orientation and do the red lines on the British flag. In ASCII do the following patterns: / | -- Remember to keep the block in the same orientation. With this long and skinny block you are pulling and pushing the long edge at times. Then gradually lower the grit and continue using the block. Some people use a guide coat of some type of spray paint that doesnt match the color of your body filler. When you sand it off you should see paint in the groves. (that way you know you still have sanding marks to get out) You should fully sand off the guide coat once you have it flat and smooth. Dont sand the surface finer than 600 grit. (you want maximum adhesion and primer/paint can easily fill in 600 grit sanding marks. It is hard rubber and doesnt give. You can probably find something flat to use instead but this works great if you are willing to spend a few bucks. The rolls of adhesive paper arent terribly expensive when you consider that all sand paper is pretty expensive. (except those dollar store foam sanding blocks which work great on prep work and are grit - unknown) I did pick up sanding dust with my block before using the adhesive paper since it is so sticky it would be hard to get off otherwise. I watched a ton of videos and this brand seems to be popular with the group that knows what they are doing. I probably should have ordered the entire kit with several sizes and shapes of block. That seems like it is cheaper in the long run if you use the other sizes eventually.