Genuine E3D Hardened Steel Nozzle V6 (1.75mm) 0.40mm (V6-NOZZLE-HS-175-400)

Updated 12/2/2020 - 0400 OK, lets review. Stringing, clogs, jams, etc. Why? Well, lets be realistic. What do people tell you to do when you have stringy / blobby prints? Dial back your temps, dial up retraction. Right? That sucks. Dont do those things. Dial up your temps. Odds are with PETG youre about 15c too low from stock Prusa Slicer or Slic3r PET settings. THERMAL RUNAWAY (?) Kapton tape is your friend! You could order E3D silicone socks for a prettier solution, but a bandaid-sized strip of kapton tape wrapped around the heat-block (ABOVE the nozzle). Remove the extruder/nozzle fans, the nozzle fan shroud, wrap tape, attach shroud and fans. BOOM done. This protects the thermistor from the nozzle fan blowing across it. The thermistor needs to read the temps of the hot-end, not the nozzle fan! So this should help stabilize your temps, preventing the nozzle fan from hitting it or allowing the hot-end to recover its temps while the nozzle fan goes. Next, dial up retraction. Do you get a jam? Heres what I did. Follow the guide to replace your PTFE insert on Prusas site, only dont replace it. The inner diameter is probably something like 1.8 to 2.1mm. Well, those jams I measured as wide as 2.5mm. So what did I do? I found a drill bit, ran it through my tube, bored out the inner diameter to 2.75mm. I also did a better job of chamfering out the top-end of the PTFE. No more jams, up to about 15mm of retraction length. Perfect! I only need around 5-10 right? Well, theres more to consider. If your nozzle doesnt have a special coating on it, at hotter-than normal temps, PLA and PET/G will stick to the nozzle, or ooze. Not necessarily but possibly both! So even if you dial up retraction length and speed, even if you bore your PTFE insert out, even if you take some tension off of your gearbox screw, and even if your filament is fully dehydrated after 20+ hours at 140(f) some filaments, shiny PLA in particular, will still string all to hell. So will some of the PET/G filaments, from various brands. Caveat. Hardened Steel, whyd you install it? To print plain old shiny PLA and PETG? No! We install this noise so we can print CF PLA and CF PETG, GF Nylon, Glow in the Dark PLA, Color Change, last but certainly not least, metal fill PLA. This stuff EATS brass nozzles, right? Funny story, most of these additive filaments wont be stringy even printing at these higher temps. In-fact youll want to print at these higher temps to get strong layer adhesion and cleaner prints overall. So, something to consider! Use a hardened steel for what you bought it for! If you need to print regular PLA and PETG, consider rotating back and forth based on the need. Swap out back to brass when you need to print plain filaments. Switch back to this hardened steel nozzle when you need to print additive filaments like glow or metal fill etc. Boom. Are all of your problems solved? No! Will releasing tension off of the bearbox screw and upping your temps help fix moire? Maybe! This is my review. There are many like it but this one is mine. --------- Im running dual Prusa i3 Mk3s. One of them is completely stock, the other has custom PETG printed parts but otherwise, stock. Got a good seat on both nozzles and got some very good prints. Heres the problem: 1. Stringing, horrifying stringing. Ive tried retraction towers, benchies, I cant seem to be able to dial in settings for a variety of filaments to prevent stringing. Certain filaments have zero stringing, such as CF, Color Change, etc. Any plain old PLA, strings to all hell. 2. Clogs. Any Retraction Length over 2mm instantly clogs the nozzle when retracting often, regardless of retraction speed or nozzle temp. At higher temps it takes longer to clog, but it still clogs. Any help would be appreciated.

A considerably better investment than my Olsson Ruby. Having good prints is largely dependent on being able to clean the nozzle properly, which this nozzle is really tolerant of.

Quite a bit more than brass but well worth it. Lasts much longer and doesnt clog like the brass ones do.

This is a good hardened nozzle I bought for carbon filament. I was afraid the original brass nozzle I had would be worn away by the abrasive carbon running through the nozzle. Ive been using this nozzle on every type of filament I own and had zero issues. Its a little pricey but real good quality.

quality nozzle must have for abrasive filaments last forever with normal filaments

I do a lot of printing and I tried this as an attempt to reduce consumption of brass nozzles. The result was a reduction in print quality that I couldnt tune out. Not to blame the manufacturer, I just think hardened steel nozzles should be reserved for abrasive materials ONLY.

I replaced a brass nozzle a while back and have not noticed any issues with this replacement. Seems to be working as designed.

Had to change the nozzle out on my Prusa printer, fast delivery cut my down time and is working great.

I was getting subpar prints because I was using cheaper copper nozzles that are ten bucks for like 20 of them. Just get this one. Prints improved 100% from first use. Cant wait to break out the glow filament!

Excellent nozzle, I have printed with wood PLA.