Genuine E3D Hardened Steel Nozzle V6 (1.75mm) 0.40mm (V6-NOZZLE-HS-175-400)

Originally got this to print glow-in-the-dark filament. Initially it appeared to be causing jams, but after some troubleshooting I noticed that the filament was getting caught in a step in the middle of my heatbreak shortly after installing the nozzle, what a wild coincidence. After replacing with a new heatbreak, the nozzle prints great. I understand as a general rule, you should print at slightly higher temperature with a steel nozzle, but I noticed in my case that isnt necessary.. maybe because Im using the silicone sock? YMMV, Ill probably just leave this nozzle installed forever.

No complaints, in the same time that I had to go throu about 6 brass nozzles, this one is still printing like a champ even glow in the dark and wood materials

Purchased Genuine E3D Hardened Steel nozzle for printing exotic materials. Nozzle is made of high quality hardened steel which lasts indefinitely longer than softer nozzels. Highly recommended for anyone printing exotic materials like carbon fiber composite filament!!!

I’ve run a fair amount of carbon fiber reinforced nylon through it and still puts out beautiful prints.

I have a Prusa MK3 and decided to grab a steel nozzle for more abrasive filaments. So far this steel nozzle has been working great. It was a quick install from my .4 brass stock nozzle. But ive had no issue with extrusion or clogging at all. The only issue ive had was operating temps. I have to go up as much as 20c to get this to print as well as my brass one. But other than that, its been a great nozzle. I highly recommend it for your E3D hotend.

I bought this nozzle because I was tired of blowing through brass ones. I mostly print PLA, and while the occasional PLA print isnt enough to burn out a brass nozzle very quickly, printing for a few hundred hours every month certainly can, in my experience. Fit and finish seems very consistent, and the nozzle lets a high E string from a guitar slip through clean, though those run smaller than the 0.4mm the nozzle is supposed to be, so I cant verify the internal diameter. I had to raise my printing temp for PLA from 195C to 215C (an increase of 20C) to get PLA to extrude properly. An alternative may be allowing the hotend to pre-heat for 10-15 minutes prior to running a print, but many of my prints only take that long in general. Also, while I was previously able to use 6mm retraction with the brass nozzle, the steel one seems more temperamental about retractions beyond 4-5mm (which, to be fair, is the maximum suggested retraction rate from E3D themselves). It is worth noting that, if your print quality is absolute garbage after using this nozzle, your unit is defective. This happens at a certain rate in precision machining. If this is the case for you, request a replacement immediately. In the past, E3D has allowed me to return one of their products with the same fault 5 times in a row until I got a working one. It happens and is unfortunately just part of mass production of precision equipment. Overall, its working fine so far. Ill update this review if any serious issues arise. Follow-up: After having a few patchy prints arise after changing to another spool of filament, I found that the E-steps and flow rate needed to be adjusted. This makes me think that either the nozzle diameter isnt quite right, or the pocket inside of the nozzle is larger than in the brass ones. In any case, simply updating your E-steps and adjusting the flow rate accordingly got rid of the problem. Im also getting prints on par as with my brass nozzle, so people who are saying this nozzle ruins their print quality either received defective units or didnt re-calibrate their printer to support the new nozzle.

If you need a .4mm E3D hardened steel nozzle then this will do.

Used it with abrasive and non abrasive filament. Did not have to adjust temperatures for either type compared to brass nozzle.

Will def buy E3D nozzles again!

PLA and PETG sticks to the nozzle enough that buildup will regularly fail prints after about a couple of hours. Z height is set with feeler shims and mesh bed leveling is turned on. E steps calibrated ~ +- 0.05mm over 200mm with the nozzle on, yet flow rate needs to be set at 78% to get ~0.4mm line width. Probably an improperly sized nozzle but I have no way of testing that. Swapped it out for a Microswiss A2 nozzle, reset Z height and line width is now bang on +- 0.02mm at 100% flow rate. This was on a E3D V6 hotend with Bondtech extruder gears. Pictured is the third attempt at printing the bear upgrade extruder with PETG before finally giving up and getting the Microswiss nozzle. It could be something simple but I couldnt figure it out and when the replacement nozzle just worked beautifully right out of the box Im more than a little miffed.