KILMAT 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

Installed in 2015 Corolla. Applied to doors all the floor rear deck spare tire well, and almost every piece of metal and it’s greatly reduced the rattle from bass now I just have to isolate the small parts around the car. This product is overall 5 stars. Easy to apply take the time to use a heat gun or leave the panels in the rear window during the day and they will peel and stick with ease. The warming up of the panel really helps when you need to rool them down. Do not forget to roll them out there are raised squares that need to be fooled out I forgot that and after it was way better once I rolled them out! My first kilmat sound dampening project and I will be buying some more for a future car or the hood well done Killmat

The sound difference is minimal with only a single layer applied. I chose to add a second layer at every point where the base layer met and created a seam. That gives the rigidity I expect. This product does not reduce all sound. It simply adds rigidity to the sheet metal and stops rattles and tinny sounds. Adding a layer of acoustic foam padding under the carpet is still advised if total sound reduction is your goal. As measured with a caliper, the material is just over 2mm thick. 80mil = 2.2mm, so it is as thick as advertised. I still wish it was significantly thicker... It is about half as thick as the old factory stuff I peeled out of my truck. It is worth noting that I am working on a 97 F350 pickup. A modern car has considerably thinner metal and a single layer may work better on modern cars. There is a slight asphalt smell on the material. However, I have yet to notice it once installed. It just smells like fresh pavement out of the box. A handy tip, buy a cheap wooden spatula and use that for the initial fit before using a roller. It is much easier to manipulate into folds and reduce air bubbles. My advice, add an extra box to your order and plan to add a second layer at strategic points to achieve the result you desire. Otherwise, just pay the extra money and get a thicker product. But, for the price, adding a second layer is still probably the best value.

I used a torch to ensure it was sticky because rolling it flat is too much work PLUS I like the pattern! I used it on the floor and on the box and where it is sealed off at the B-pillar, and made a big difference.

OK, first of all Ive been professionally taking cars apart and putting them back together for the last 7 years as an autobody/refinish tech. You see some cars with little to no sound deadner and some higher end cars with lots of it. Eventually you come to see/hear/feel the difference this stuff actually makes for cars that didnt have it at all or have very much of it. Weve always used the 3M sound deadner pads that are shiny, black, and come 10 large (19x19) squares in a box. Did a 2008 Crown Vic with those, they worked well. Those are much thicker than this stuff and weigh a fair amount more. (NO, Im not complaining about weight) I just always thought that if it was heavier it HAD to be better. Well, Im working at a different larger shop now, and it wouldve been harder/more expensive to get the 3M pads, so I gave these a shot. I had to do a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe for noisy/hollow sounding doors, a couple of which pinged like a drum head when they closed, thanks to the foam/adhesive breaking down on the diagonal support inside the door that the door-skin is bonded to. So, I did a few big strips, (it does not need to be completely covered!!) inside all 4 passenger doors, and rear gate. The stuff cuts good with a sharp box-cutter (watch the foil edges) Also, it sticks very well when pressed or rolled into place. I then added some Noico red foam to help with additional road noise dampening and insulation. I know some people complain about the smell but I never noticed it at all in the Hyundai or my 2018 F-150. This stuff worked great! got rid of all of the pinging/hollow sounding doors and it also gives you a pleasant increase in sound quality/bass response even with stock speakers! The Hyundai doors now sound like closing the doors on a car 3x its price tag with by doing that. They sound nice and solid now when they close. I also did all the doors on my 2018 F-150 with the other half of the box of this and the Noico foam, good results there too!! I will still have a small amount leftover that will go somewhere in the F-150 cab. Good price! Definitely recommend to get rid of hollow/cheap sounding doors or added for those looking for better sound!

Worked pretty well for quieting my car down. It’s easy to cut to size and to apply, and I didn’t notice any smell. Id say I went for about 60% coverage and ended up using about 1.5 of the 3 boxes I ordered.

Decent for what it is…. Not as thick as 80mil I believe but it does the trick. If you do 2 to 3 layers you will be sold just 1 layer might not do it for a big audio build.

This product is easy to use. Extremely sticky, great adhesion. The bumpy pattern realy helps to let you know where youve rolled it out.

Used these to settle down the vibration on my hood, trunk lid, etc. after I changed my OEM engine mounts to less squishy custom mounts. Highly recommend.

Works as advertised!

Ive done all sorts of upgrades/enhancements to my cars over the years, and installing sound deadener has been the most transformative. Sure, upgrading the stereo/amp/speakers all at once is hugely transformative, but its also expected to make a huge difference. The reason I say sound deadener is more transformative is that it improved things in many unexpected ways, on top of the expected reduction in road & mechanical noise. Background on my vehicle: - Medium sized pickup truck with extended cab - 2006 but only 40,000 miles, so enough miles to develop some rattles - 4 doors (2 normal, 2 smaller) - Smaller doors provide access to extended area for storage or jump seats I took the driver/passenger and jump seats out but only moved the carpeting out of the way vs fully removing. This, and because I didnt remove the center console, meant that I was able to cover the sides of the drivetrain well but not the top . In my truck, most of the mechanical noise comes from the engine, not the drivetrain. What I covered with 72 sq ft of 80 mil mats (i.e. purchased 2 boxes of 36 sq ft): - 4 doors - Rear of extended cab (area facing bed) down to the floor - Ceiling - Driver/passenger footwell up thru firewall - 3-4 wide area running between seats and doors from front to back - 2/3 of area below drivers seat (was too lazy to remove passenger seat again just to apply a single sheet) - 1 sheet of mat leftover I was very thorough. I removed the speakers in the doors and covered the area behind them (I also installed speaker baffles, which improve the sound quality and provide some sound deadening qualities). The rear doors have built-in pocket storage areas so I ended up covering the exterior metal panels of the doors and the some of the interior metal panels. Maybe overkill, but those doors were also the source for a lot of road noise. Expected improvement: significant reduction of road and engine noise. This stuff delivered the goods. My 9 y/o immediately noticed the difference and said something before I could tell her I was done. And this was on city streets, so not even highway. Its that noticeable. Hands-free phone calls, music, talk radio, you name it, all sound much cleaner, crisper and without having to crank it up as much. Unexpected improvements: - Doors close with a more solid feel - Near silence when going over potholes and changes in pavement - Sensation of that I installed a new, more sophisticated suspension because everything feels tighter and smoother All in all, money well and one weekend well spent. Installation tips: - Run a small heater if installing in temps below 60 degrees. The mats will adhere better. - Buy the metal rollers to make sure the mats are completely flat and fully adhered. - Before removing the paper backing, put the mat into the desired location and press hard on the areas that need to be accessible (screw holes, wiring, etc) to create an impression. Then use exacto knife or razor blade to make the opening marked by the impression. Be sure to double check all access points twice so you dont find yourself all ready to put everything back together and you have to find the one you covered. For rubber gasket access points, I cut a path around the edges so you can remove the gasket, but theres still mat on the bulk (center) of the gasket.