Kasa Smart Plug KP200, In-Wall Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, ETL Certified , White, 1 Pack

3 nice things about this dimmer: 1. Allows for local control, meaning that you can control it with Home Assistant. 2. You can turn off the backlight (in case you are using it in a bedroom and dont want the wall switch lighting up the room. 3. If you need to reboot the light for some reason, you can push the bottom right small button One SUPER annoying thing about KASA devices: They now FORCE you to create a cloud account just to connect these to your wifi. I absolutely detest this practice. Once I connected the light, I blocked all internet access to these (and every smart IOT device in my house) using my OpenWRT router. Overall recommended. I have many of these devices for the reasons listed above.

This is an affordable way to implement a dimmable light into your smart-house schematic. However, installation comes with some gotchas that I feel are unique to this product. For one, at least for me, line and load were the opposite of what colors the wiring in my wall indicated. Secondly, there is a riser under the screws that the wires need to go UNDER for the switch to work properly. Knowing this beforehand would have saved me some time and trouble, but after a few tries I got things working. Thankfully, setup with the app was very simple. I do wish there was a way to customize the dimming as my light doesnt turn on until the dimmer is set to about 65%. The app seems to allow this, but it never works for me. Im not sure what it actually does.

Took about 4 hours to install and get to work with Alexa. The mounting screws were too short and I had to buy longer ones at the hardware store. Although I regard myself as a pretty knowledge person regarding electric circuits and computers, Instructions for installation very confusing and difficult to follow. if you dont connect the line wire (coming from the power source) and the load wire (going to the bulb) to the correct terminals, the switch wont work, but the instructions dont warn you of this or tell you which terminal to connect which wire to. Cost me an extra hour or so to figure this out. You need to download the separate app from KASA and open a KASA account before connection to Alexa will work. But looking for KASA on the list of compatible devices is just one of the annoyances. The list is several hundred items long, and KASA is listed under T, not K (for TP-Link), which cost me another 30 minutes to figure out. There was no warning to use only dimmable bulbs. If you use non-dimmable bulbs, the switch will work but there will be a flicker--barely noticeable if you dont attempt to dim them, but increasingly noticeable and annoying if you do try to dim them. When I replaced the bulbs with dimmable bulbs, everything worked perfectly. I subtracted one star because of confusing or missing wiring instructions, failure to warn against using nondimmable bulbs and the need to buy longer mounting screws. One negative review claims that the switch will not work if you use more than one bulb in the circuit, but I found that incorrect and, in fact, the user manual, which can be downloaded from Amazon, tells you to test the dimmer function when installing the switch using bulbs, in the plural. I am using multiple bulbs without a problem.

I rejected this TP-Link dimmer to begin with because it was too cheap and I didnt recognize the name. Of course it cant work as well as the $100 name-brand Lutron dimmer! Well, the Lutron dimmer couldnt do a stupid simple task, remembering the last used brightness setting and restoring that setting the next time you hit the switch to On. (With the Lutron dimmer their Pico handheld remote (included in that $100 kit) did have a favorite setting/button, but, who walks around with yet another separate remote (or hauls out their phone) to turn on a light when walking into a room? I just want to hit the wall switch like I have done for nearly 70 years! (God, did I just write that? How did I get that old???) I ordered this TP-Link dimmer (for less than 1/5th the cost of the Lutron), received it the next day, yanked out the Lutron dimmer, replaced it with this dimmer, adjusted the brightness, buttoned everything back up, tapped the switch to off, waited a couple of seconds, tapped the switch on, and, voila, the lights went back to the previously set brightness setting. Thank you, TP-Link. Great product! (Oh, and the TP-Link app is easier to use and their product line is far more extensive (and, again, far less expensive!))

Easy to program on my Pixel 7. Wait to see if it is durable.

This switch is the right solution to a set of 6 bathroom lights that is way too bright, even with low-voltage LEDs. Bright is good for grooming, but bright is not good first thing in the morning or in the middle of the night. Putting in 6 dimmable bulbs was not a realistic solution, as they would have to be programmed individually then grouped in software. The Kasa Dimmer works perfectly on 6 LED lights. The dimming function is easy to use and provides full range from off to full-on bright. Installation is easy. You do need a neutral white wire but all houses since the 1970s have that. Determine if you need to buy a new faceplate. My installation was in a 3-ganged box and I could not find a faceplate for two rockers and one toggle, so I had to buy a cheap Leviton rocker (dumb switch) and replace the toggle so I could use a three-rocker faceplate. Buy a flexible faceplate (such as Enerlites) because it takes a little jiggling and cursing to get all the switches lined up perfectly and you do not want to crack the faceplate. The biggest downside to the Kasa dimmer is that when you touch it, it doesnt come on. It has to think for a couple of seconds, then it comes on gradually over half a second. If youre impatient and touch the switch again, you just turned it off. Ha-ha. This little game can go on for several cycles. When you walk into a room, you expect to touch a switch and get instant light. You do not expect to stop and stand in front of the switch to see if its going to work. This is a great annoyance, but ultimately a minor flaw. After a while you learn how to touch the Kasa switch just right so you have a 90% chance of success. It is, however a design flaw that makes the switch less than perfect. Integration with Alexa is seamless (once you link the accounts) and performance is rock-solid. Ive never had a Kasa product fail on me, and I have plenty of them in the house. Recommended.

I have dozens of TP-Link KASA products installed in my home, including a dozen smart plugs (majority only get seasonal use), nine on/off switches, one 3 way dimmer, and five of these dimmer switches. They are well made, an unbeatable value when on sale, and straightforward to install (note that all TP-Links Kasa switches require a neutral wire - depending on when your house was built and how the switch boxes were wired, you may or may not have a neutral available in your wall switch boxes). These connect to the 2.4Ghz band of WiFi - note that these switches can end up out of range of your WiFi if you have your access point or router poorly positioned in your house and/or you have a substandard access point or router - I have no connectivity issues with an access point located on the ceiling of my first floor in the center of my 2 story home - be prepared to up your WiFi coverage if youre serious about having a smart home - I have a separate IoT VLAN defined on my router and provisioned to the 2.4 GHz band of my multiband AP to keep my IoT devices off of my home network. A single AP covers my 2700 SF house, for both the 2.4 GHz band IoT devices, and the 5 Ghz band human facing devices on my home network. These switches are large, as are most smart switches - Ive found they install easily in the modern plastic switch boxes in my renovated kitchen and family room addition, but can be a tight fit in the original steel switch boxes in the remainder of my 1963 vintage home - I have taken to replacing the original steel boxes with new old work plastic boxes, and will spec the extra deep old work boxes if the stud cavity allows for it - this solves the space issue, and again if serious about a smart home are some of the things you need to do to be on board. These switches are Decora style and are activated by pushing the bottom of the plastic paddle for both on and off functions - while the ergonomics are a bit different than a standard dumb Decora switch, I like them, and honestly I use voice or routines to control the switches to the point where the physical switch interface is a non-issue. In multi-gang box situations, I have taken to replacing any dumb toggle switches with corresponding dumb Decora paddle switches for those switches I dont need smart functionality in, in order to keep the look consistent. I have had no issues with the yoke depth of these TP-Link Kasa switches in terms of being able to install standard wallplates - I have replaced my old steel Mulberry plates with screwless plastic Claro branded Lutron wall plates for a nice clean consistent modern look - see photo. Steel plates are a no-no BTW with smart switches - they obstruct radio signals no matter what tech you are using - WiFi, Zigbee, Lutron ClearConnect etc. I also use Wago lever style wire nuts for the end point connections for the wire leads coming off of these Kasa switches - they save some space and can also save some wear and tear on the house wiring rather than have to untwist pretwisted and wire nutted connections to make changes and/or additions in the future. I have dozens of Alexa routines set up using these switches - the switches can be used to initiate an integration, unlike my Lutron Caseta switches, which can only be acted on by a routine, they themselves cant initiate a routine. These also integrate with Home Assistant. These have been dead reliable for me in terms of connectivity and responsiveness. Most of the negative reviews are unwarranted IMO.

Installing the wires and switch was easy but the app and apple homekit made setup a bit flaky. you MUST be sure to select the correct type of smart dinner device from the list in the app, further down is the apple homekit version of smart dimmer thst i didnt see at 1st. had to call Kasa support where Nelsie helped me locate the right wifi setup screen and use homekit to add the device using a special barcode which is not on the device but Is Found on the inside of the top lid on the product box. Once we identified the right switch model and found the homekit code it finally went together. tech support was very patient while we sorted things out. once we got it running the device responds to alexa and homekit for dimming and Off and On as we hoped it would.

Look, I have a TON of Kasa stuff in my house. Switches, dimmers, three-way dimmers, strip lights, smart power strips. Seriously, maybe everything except cameras, because I have an entire hardwired CCTV system in the house. I like Kasa, and I really want to like these. They were easy to install (as long as you understand electrical, dont hurt yourself people!) And I know the trick to connect them even if the app doesnt detect them. They are a little bulky, but it you can handle working them up you can make them fit in the box just fine, Im sure. ...BUT... I use HA, and thats one of the reasons I chose Kasa. AND when I bought these outlets, I was under the impression that they did power monitoring. Now theyre installed and configured in all the systems, and I learn that they actually do not have energy monitoring capability. Disappointing. And I dont understand why that feature wouldnt be included on these. Seems like a basic feature, especially since its included in all the wall wart style smart plugs I have, most of which are also from Kasa? TPLink, if this can be added by software update, that would be great, as it really just seems like a basic feature that should have been provided.

Installed the HS220 on a single gang box. Follow app installation instructions was what was said. The neutral and ground was easily attached and wires were shoved to back of the oversized box. Clue to determine the Line and Load wire was helpful, but app doesnt identify which switch screw was which. Only squinting at the back of the switch could I see the labeling in a micro font. Screwing to wall completed but be warned----this switch takes up way too much room in the box. Had this box not already been recessed, Im not sure I could have attached it to the box. The obstacle to completing the installation is how to reattached the plate. Loosening the switch from the box hasnt helped reattachment. Still playing with calibrating brightness. Telling Alexa to dim to 20% or 100% seems to work. Pros: Connecting the wifi and attaching to Alexa was simple. Expect it to automatically reattach as other Kasa products do when power goes out Small location circle helps to find it the dark. Cons: Device is way too thick and needs too much room in the box. I bought this for my kitchen but too many wires in the box prevented installation so I installed in a secondary location. Difficulty in reattaching the plate after installation in a single gang box. -- Still working on this