Kasa Smart Plug KP200, In-Wall Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, ETL Certified , White, 1 Pack

This worked as expected. It was bought to be able to have more control on the lighting when away for security. If youre away on a trip, you can create a profile on the app and control the light turn on/off times, and brightness levels What I like about it is that it is capable of being programmed via the app. The app has improved over the years. Note Ive had the Kasa Smart brand for my wall outlet plugs and have 0 issues with it. My porch light has a one as well which works good. What I dont like is the feel.. Im so use for up to on, and down to be off. This switch (and other Kasa switches) have a single down press. I just wish they could have made the whole thing as a push button so it doent feel weird needing to push down when turning on the lights. What I really dont like is the blinking of the lights when you set it to full power by pressing the button. Im guessing that blink it to say it is at full power.. but it is annoying.. Blink the switch led.. not the main light. Dimmer features are much more course than an analog switch, but it is good enough. Interesting thing about this switch for brightness is that you can set what you consider 100% lighting so it never goes over that. I havent tested this feature but I found it interesting they gave this feature. Installing the switch was not difficult, but be sure to read the instructions and review instructions on how light switches are to be installed. It can get confusing sometimes. Synching the switch to the network and to the phone was easy. Since it was a first time install, it was blinking, which indicates that it is ready to be synchronized/connected. I didnt look on this switch, but my other Kasa switch had a resynch button in case you need to resynch it, so look in your instructions if you need to do this. Synching just required that I turn on my app and go through the motion of adding a new device. It steps you through the process. Within the app you can control the brightness, On/Off, turn off timer, and schedule/program the on/off times. One thing I really liked about the Kasa was the capability of scheduling it to turn on at sunset and turn off on sunrise as a setting. This means I dont need to look up when the sunrises or sets. I know this is suppose to be able to integrate with Alexa and Google, but I havent test this feature.

To control non smart dimmable lamps.

Look, I have a TON of Kasa stuff in my house. Switches, dimmers, three-way dimmers, strip lights, smart power strips. Seriously, maybe everything except cameras, because I have an entire hardwired CCTV system in the house. I like Kasa, and I really want to like these. They were easy to install (as long as you understand electrical, dont hurt yourself people!) And I know the trick to connect them even if the app doesnt detect them. They are a little bulky, but it you can handle working them up you can make them fit in the box just fine, Im sure. ...BUT... I use HA, and thats one of the reasons I chose Kasa. AND when I bought these outlets, I was under the impression that they did power monitoring. Now theyre installed and configured in all the systems, and I learn that they actually do not have energy monitoring capability. Disappointing. And I dont understand why that feature wouldnt be included on these. Seems like a basic feature, especially since its included in all the wall wart style smart plugs I have, most of which are also from Kasa? TPLink, if this can be added by software update, that would be great, as it really just seems like a basic feature that should have been provided.

I love Kasa plugs and switches and I use them all over my house. I have tried other brands and they are always glitchy. Kasa just works.

I have installed five Kasa switches in my house and have a few more to do. No problems with any of the switches and they hook up and integrate well with Alexa. You have to download the Kasa application follow the prompts and set up the switch and once that is done go to your alexa application and find and enable the kasa skill, tell alexa to search for new devices and it will find your new switch. It work so well I plan to do all my switches. Get yourself an electricity tester pen before you start and know your wire colors. Trust me you will need it for the three way version which is a little tricky to install. Basic switch is easy if you have the white neutral wire which is required. The only thing I absolutely do not like is how they dont sit well under a standard faceplate. It doesnt sit flat under the faceplate and leaves a gap around the edge. If you only have one switch on the wall then the faceplate you get in the box will work fine but many of my switches have two or three switches side by side. Kasa needs to make their switch lay flat against the wall so a standard cover will hide it better without that gap between the wall and the faceplate.

KS220 is a dimmer switch specified to work wit Apple Home. It was straightforward to install and wire the switch although it was a tight fit for depth in the electrical box. Configuration and calibration were straightforward and fast with the Kasa app. Operation of the switch is flawless with the Kasa app. But I bought this switch to use with Apple Home. In order to add the switch to Apple Home the instructions state that the user must capture a QR code. But there are three different QR codes on the packaging and the relevant code is under the box lid, which i did not notice until after I had repeatedly tried and failed with the other two QR codes on the box. In order for the QR code to work, the user must reset and reconfigure the switch if the switch has been powered up more than 15 minutes. I used Kasa support by text messaging and they were no help.

Using app it took about 8 min to setup wifi and alex

Make sure you use LED bulbs if you have multiple bulbs connected to this switch as this switch only allows 350 watts. Bought this to regulate the time my front porch fixtures come on in the eve and turn off in the morning. I have three fixtures with a total of 14 bulbs, with 60watt regular bulbs my wattage was 840, the switch kept clicking off due to over heating. Switched the bulbs to LED, 6 watts per bulb and reduced to 84 watts, the Kasa Smart dimmer switch works great. I set my schedule and my lights come on at the time I set every eve and go off at the time I set in the morning. Easy to install, a bit tricky to program but go step by step as listed and you will get it done. Im a 59 year old that has a technical interest.

I have over 50 smart WiFi devices connected to a Google Mesh home network. The 20+ TP-Link smart devices in the network perform without a technical hitch and are reliable. The Kasa/TP-Link (KP200) WiFi two-outlet, in-wall receptacle is no exception. IF it is installed properly (see below), the KP200 works well and is easy to install (neutral white wire required!!). WARNING FOR AMATEUR ELECTRICIANS (like me): I am NOT an electrician, however, Ive personally replaced most of the wall switches and receptacles in my home without a single issue. I have also replaced ceiling fans, light fixtures and bathroom exhaust fans -- also without any issues. So, I was very confident installing he KP200 would be another cakewalk. However, this time I got in a little over my head installing the KP200, and it required an EXPENSIVE visit by a licensed electrician to make things right again. I learned, here in Arizona (and probably other states too), the safety code requires ANY WALL RECEPTACLE (outlet) within 15 feet of running water (such as kitchen sink or bathroom sink/tub/shower) must be a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). This is also sometimes called a GFI outlet. My open concept kitchen area has eight wall receptacles (all with NO GFCI markings or the usual GFI test/reset buttons); therefore, I did not know they were GFCI. About 14 feet from my kitchen sink is a pantry -- which is far enough away from the kitchen sink not to worry about water splashing. The pantry has two above-counter wall receptacles (which I later learned are UNMARKED GFCI receptacles). So, when I replaced one of the UNMARKED GFCI outlets with the KP200, everything went to hell in a handbasket. The KP200 would not work properly, AND the other seven kitchen outlets were inoperable as well. In short (pun intended), the electrician said the KP200 is NOT a GFCI unit, and replacing the GFCI with the KP200 -- not only violated the states electrical code, but it was also created a substantial safety hazard by breaking the chain of protection provided by the eight outlets connected to the unmarked GFCI circuit. (Once I went to the outside electrical panel, it was visually obvious some of the breakers were GFCI, but inside the home, nothing indicates their GFCI status). Although the electrician has an excellent reputation for quality work, he is VERY OLD SCHOOL. As such, there are TWO THINGS he absolutely HATES: (1) ALL home automation smart devices (dont even mention the word - Alexa to him); (2) ANY weekend-warrior homeowner who is not a licensed electrician and does his own electrical work. That said, I not only received a very stern verbal admonishment regarding electrical safety, I also received an invoice for $150. (I think some of the $150 was punitive.) Expensive lesson learn. So, BEFORE you swap-out your old electrical outlet for a TP-LINK KP200, be CERTAIN it is NOT an UNMARKED CFCI receptacle. By the way, the next day, I installed the KP200 in a bedroom, and it works as expected! It is an excellent and reliable name-brand product! ONE LAST CAVEAT: I only purchase smart devices made by large, well-established technology companies, such as TP-Link. Why? Most Internet of Things (IOT) smart devices COMMUNICATE to the world outside your home in order to function. That means IOT devices are potentially the WEAKEST LINK in your home Internet/network security. In other words, you need to purchase IOT devices from companies that have the financial resources and technical expertise to update BOTH the firmware and software of their products -- as the product ages. This updating helps defend your home network against hackers who exploit cheap, no-name IOT device to gain access to the rest of your home network, computers, smartphones, tablets, and etc. I hope this helps.

I rejected this TP-Link dimmer to begin with because it was too cheap and I didnt recognize the name. Of course it cant work as well as the $100 name-brand Lutron dimmer! Well, the Lutron dimmer couldnt do a stupid simple task, remembering the last used brightness setting and restoring that setting the next time you hit the switch to On. (With the Lutron dimmer their Pico handheld remote (included in that $100 kit) did have a favorite setting/button, but, who walks around with yet another separate remote (or hauls out their phone) to turn on a light when walking into a room? I just want to hit the wall switch like I have done for nearly 70 years! (God, did I just write that? How did I get that old???) I ordered this TP-Link dimmer (for less than 1/5th the cost of the Lutron), received it the next day, yanked out the Lutron dimmer, replaced it with this dimmer, adjusted the brightness, buttoned everything back up, tapped the switch to off, waited a couple of seconds, tapped the switch on, and, voila, the lights went back to the previously set brightness setting. Thank you, TP-Link. Great product! (Oh, and the TP-Link app is easier to use and their product line is far more extensive (and, again, far less expensive!))