Kasa Smart Plug KP200, In-Wall Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, ETL Certified , White, 1 Pack

I have over 50 smart WiFi devices connected to a Google Mesh home network. The 20+ TP-Link smart devices in the network perform without a technical hitch and are reliable. The Kasa/TP-Link (KP200) WiFi two-outlet, in-wall receptacle is no exception. IF it is installed properly (see below), the KP200 works well and is easy to install (neutral white wire required!!). WARNING FOR AMATEUR ELECTRICIANS (like me): I am NOT an electrician, however, Ive personally replaced most of the wall switches and receptacles in my home without a single issue. I have also replaced ceiling fans, light fixtures and bathroom exhaust fans -- also without any issues. So, I was very confident installing he KP200 would be another cakewalk. However, this time I got in a little over my head installing the KP200, and it required an EXPENSIVE visit by a licensed electrician to make things right again. I learned, here in Arizona (and probably other states too), the safety code requires ANY WALL RECEPTACLE (outlet) within 15 feet of running water (such as kitchen sink or bathroom sink/tub/shower) must be a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). This is also sometimes called a GFI outlet. My open concept kitchen area has eight wall receptacles (all with NO GFCI markings or the usual GFI test/reset buttons); therefore, I did not know they were GFCI. About 14 feet from my kitchen sink is a pantry -- which is far enough away from the kitchen sink not to worry about water splashing. The pantry has two above-counter wall receptacles (which I later learned are UNMARKED GFCI receptacles). So, when I replaced one of the UNMARKED GFCI outlets with the KP200, everything went to hell in a handbasket. The KP200 would not work properly, AND the other seven kitchen outlets were inoperable as well. In short (pun intended), the electrician said the KP200 is NOT a GFCI unit, and replacing the GFCI with the KP200 -- not only violated the states electrical code, but it was also created a substantial safety hazard by breaking the chain of protection provided by the eight outlets connected to the unmarked GFCI circuit. (Once I went to the outside electrical panel, it was visually obvious some of the breakers were GFCI, but inside the home, nothing indicates their GFCI status). Although the electrician has an excellent reputation for quality work, he is VERY OLD SCHOOL. As such, there are TWO THINGS he absolutely HATES: (1) ALL home automation smart devices (dont even mention the word - Alexa to him); (2) ANY weekend-warrior homeowner who is not a licensed electrician and does his own electrical work. That said, I not only received a very stern verbal admonishment regarding electrical safety, I also received an invoice for $150. (I think some of the $150 was punitive.) Expensive lesson learn. So, BEFORE you swap-out your old electrical outlet for a TP-LINK KP200, be CERTAIN it is NOT an UNMARKED CFCI receptacle. By the way, the next day, I installed the KP200 in a bedroom, and it works as expected! It is an excellent and reliable name-brand product! ONE LAST CAVEAT: I only purchase smart devices made by large, well-established technology companies, such as TP-Link. Why? Most Internet of Things (IOT) smart devices COMMUNICATE to the world outside your home in order to function. That means IOT devices are potentially the WEAKEST LINK in your home Internet/network security. In other words, you need to purchase IOT devices from companies that have the financial resources and technical expertise to update BOTH the firmware and software of their products -- as the product ages. This updating helps defend your home network against hackers who exploit cheap, no-name IOT device to gain access to the rest of your home network, computers, smartphones, tablets, and etc. I hope this helps.

I just started re-adding new smart items to my home and began with KASA because of the reviews. I had 2 of their color smart bulbs already and I enjoyed using my phone or Google Assistant and a timer schedule to turn them on off, dim, and change colors. But then, I wanted more... so I bought a few of these smart dimmer switches. (smart outlets, motions sensors, and cameras are next) These dimmer switches dont seem to mix well with the smart bulbs in my opinion, because they both register in the app separately with their own controls - so if the smart dimmer switch is off, you cant turn the bulb on through the app without turning the switch on first. Or... if you dim the smart bulb through the app then the smart dimmer switch gets out of sync. Its kind of weird. Im sure theres a way to make it happy, but with Google Home, I had to have both items separate if I wanted to use the dimmer switch and change the bulbs color. Anyway, I used regular dimmable LED bulbs with the KASA smart dimmer switches and they work awesome with the app or voice. And I like the little glowing light on the switch when the lights are out. Plus the time schedule feature and the ability to slowly dim and brighten the lights when you turn them on and off... really cool. And you can double-tap or hold the switch to fade out/fade in. I know smart stuff like this isnt anything new and exciting, I had all X10 smart outlets and switches with remote controls back in the 2000s, but that company was sketchy and disappeared after I spent several hundred dollars on smart things... It took me a long time to decide to start over again. I sure hope this company doesnt disappear after I spend a lot of money getting everything in my house automated with their products. :P

Easy to program on my Pixel 7. Wait to see if it is durable.

First of all, let me say how much I like the Kasa light switches over the Wemo brand. I had Wemo for a number of years, but lately, they have been very flaky when it came to automatic turning on and off; apparently there were issues with connectivity to their corporate servers. That has not been the case with the new Kasa switches. Im almost in love with the Kasa switches, but not quite. With the Dimmer switch, I am noticing a second or two delay from when the switch is turned on and when the light bulb actually turns on. This is not a function of the light bulb, as the same bulb turned on instantly when using regular (non-dimmer) switches from Kasa (HS103 and HS200). I have not found a solution for this issue. Due to this issue, I knocked off a star from my review. I also found a slight issue with the installation compared to the HS200 Smart Switch. Unlike the HS200 Smart Switch, the HS220 Smart Dimmer Switch does require the need to identify the source and load sides of the switched line (both will be black inside the wall). The first time I installed one of these HS220 switches, I did not realize that, and the switch would not operate; when I reversed the connections, everything worked as expected. I did not have to worry about source vs load with the HS200; I am not sure why Kasa would not have the same circuitry in both to make it simpler to install the HS220. Also, I am not a fan of the status LED being off when the lights are on, and on when the lights are off. In the bedroom, I need total darkness; the status LED is bright enough to keep me awake. I have subsequently turned off the status LED, so it is no longer illuminating at any time. However, this is problematic for hidden lights, such as outdoor or closet lights. For these, I would love to see the ability to set the status LED to on when the light is on, as it would be nice to see the status LED indicate the actual status of those lights, without having to apply reverse logic (i.e., on is off, off is on). In this, Wemo got it right (LED on when light is on, LED off when light is off). Kasa got it partially right in having the ability to disable the LED. Overall, these are very good switches, and I would highly recommend them over the Wemo brand at this point in time. I now have a mix of HS103 (Smart Plugs), HS200 (Smart Switches - Single Pole), and now HS220 (Smart Dimmer Switches - Single Pole). They are very reliable! The Kasa app works very well. I also like how the switches can be controlled using Google Home (I do not use Alexa or Siri), as my Android phone has Google Home installed on it. Simply put, it just works. That is the reason I bought these switches.

We have quite quite a few Kasa SmartPlugs in our home so I thought I would give this a try since our dining room dimmer switch needed replacing. First, the Good: - This is working very well on an antique oil chandelier that was converted to electric many years ago, and has an LED bulb. If it is working well for that, I would imagine it will work well for just about any light. - It integrates well with Alexa. I am sitting in the family room right now and via voice turned it on, dimmed it, and then turned it off. As will other Kasa smart devices, you can set a schedule and turn it on/off remotely. - It has a nice, oversized faceplate which I really like because it keeps the wall around the plate cleaner since there is less chance for hand contact. The Not Good: - The faceplate is very difficult to remove when you pull the product from the box. You fear you are going to break it. - It is even more difficult to remove if you have it mounted to the wall and need to make a depth adjustment to get a really good flush mount to the wall. - There is little to know guidance from Kasa in the box or on the web about how to remove the faceplate more easily. Most of what I found was from their help forum from other buyers who had the same question. Advisements that dont affect my review but could help you: - My old dimmer switch had wire leads that made connecting the red and black wires. This Kasa does not, which required me to flatten and straighten them so as not to loose any wire length. That requires some tools a just a bit of manual dexterity. The advantage of no lead wires is having less wiring and fewer wire caps to push back into the wall once you are done. - My old dimmer also had no ground wire. If you are not used to replacing light switches and dont know, dont skip this step and call an electrician if you are unsure about good grounding. - Speaking of calling an electrician: This Kasa requires an additional white (neutral) wire to work. Do no assume that because you have shut off power to your red/black wires that power it is also off to your white wire. Again, call an electrician if you are not sure, or at the very least use a voltage tester.

Took about 4 hours to install and get to work with Alexa. The mounting screws were too short and I had to buy longer ones at the hardware store. Although I regard myself as a pretty knowledge person regarding electric circuits and computers, Instructions for installation very confusing and difficult to follow. if you dont connect the line wire (coming from the power source) and the load wire (going to the bulb) to the correct terminals, the switch wont work, but the instructions dont warn you of this or tell you which terminal to connect which wire to. Cost me an extra hour or so to figure this out. You need to download the separate app from KASA and open a KASA account before connection to Alexa will work. But looking for KASA on the list of compatible devices is just one of the annoyances. The list is several hundred items long, and KASA is listed under T, not K (for TP-Link), which cost me another 30 minutes to figure out. There was no warning to use only dimmable bulbs. If you use non-dimmable bulbs, the switch will work but there will be a flicker--barely noticeable if you dont attempt to dim them, but increasingly noticeable and annoying if you do try to dim them. When I replaced the bulbs with dimmable bulbs, everything worked perfectly. I subtracted one star because of confusing or missing wiring instructions, failure to warn against using nondimmable bulbs and the need to buy longer mounting screws. One negative review claims that the switch will not work if you use more than one bulb in the circuit, but I found that incorrect and, in fact, the user manual, which can be downloaded from Amazon, tells you to test the dimmer function when installing the switch using bulbs, in the plural. I am using multiple bulbs without a problem.

I recently installed a few WeMo switches so I could test them out, but found they werent well designed and I wasnt particularly happy with them. So I started searching around for a new smart switch (Dimmer), and ran across the Kasa switches. I went ahead and purchased one to test it out. Installation: 5 stars, super easy and much better in my opinion than the WeMo switches. Main wires screw onto to the switch plate, and a couple of wires run off to attach with nuts. WeMo had all wires run off to attach with wire nuts which resulted in large amounts of wire and clutter behind the switches making them much harder to work with. Application: 5 stars, switch was immediately recognized and I had no problems with the application. Unlike the WeMo switches where I had several that had significant problems connecting, and they constantly disconnect. The Kasa switch has had a couple of times where the physical switch didnt work for a short period of time, but the app has always worked even when the switch didnt, and then the following day the physical switch would again work. Not sure if that is the result of a bad switch or if something else is going on, but ultimately it is a relatively minor issue as I can always use the application to turn the lights on or off if needed. Wireless: again the setup and connection were easy, and I havent had any problems with the switch staying connected to my network and always being accessible via the application. I have loads of problems with this on the WeMo switches. Design: The design is much more well thought out from the wiring to even the physical function of the Switch than the WeMo version. WeMo uses a capacitive touch plate that runs the entire length of the switch. This results in the dimmer level constantly being change, turned off, etc... whenever you turn the light switch on or off because almost the entire switch is capacitive touch. Kasa on the other hand has their dimmer buttons at the very top of the switch so they are never in the way but are very easy to access. Quality: Quality seems to be on par with the WeMo, but the design decisions were clearly well thought out. If feels like someone actually tested the Kasa Switch, while it feels like no one actually ever tested the WeMo switch design of they would have easily seen and addressed several of the blatant issues it has. Note: there is one oddity with the Kasa switch, you may consider it a good or bad thing, but when turning the switch on/off there is a slightly delay (maybe 1-2 seconds). It caught me off guard at first and made me think the switch wasnt working properly. Im still on the fence on whether this is a good thing or not, I think I prefer the instant switching action, but I can see why some people might prefer the delay and once you realize it is there it is honestly not a major issue. The Kasa Dimmer switch isnt perfect, there are a few oddities to it, but it generally functions well, it seems to be far more well thought out than the WeMo switches and is significantly more reliable as a Smart switch. If you are trying to decide between Kasa and WeMo, dont wait, go with the Kasa switches, they are significantly better in almost every way than my WeMo Switches have been. At some point I will be replacing the rest of my switches with the Kasa Switches and removing WeMo entirely from my house as they just have way too many problems with them.

Dimmer is great.