Siraya Tech Blu Nylon Mecha - Tough 3D Print Resin, Scratch-Resistant, Nylon-Like Strength & Precision, High-Resolution 405nm UV Curing LCD DLP 3D Printer Compatible, 8K Capable (1kg, Nylon Mecha)

Very tough, virtually no odor, very accurate. Needs to be at 25°C to print well, as its fairly thick. Slightly translucent very dark blue/purple. Can be dyed opaque black with RIT Proline dye. (Dont waste your time trying to use the new consumer dye - its garbage. The old stuff works if you have any though.) Best print settings with an Anycubic Photon Mono X seem to be 3 burn-in layers @ 14 sec. / 2.6 sec exposure time 50um layers. You need to be certain that the bottom of your build plate is flat and parallel to the LCD. I had to surface mine on a milling machine with a 6 flycutter to get it flat. Had to take off almost 0.010. If its not dead flat you will probably have print failures. If you dont have a milling machine (why not?) then you should be able to get it flat with various grades of wet/dry sandpaper and a [minimum] 1/4 thick glass plate. Start with 80g and go up to about 320 max. in 4 steps. Start with 320 to see how far off it is first. If its as far off as mine was, you will be there quite a while. Or mill it. Best way to get perfect prints (on any machine that uses the same clamping setup as the Mono X) - loosen the build plate screws , home the machine (do NOT put a piece of paper on the LCD - put your vat on the machine - empty, of course). Once the machine is homed, lightly press it against the LCD and tighten all the screws. Raise the build plate, loosen the clamp knob, and insert a piece of 0.003-0.005 thick paper between the build plate upper support and the carriage effectively raising the build plate by ~0.005. This also seems to damp some of the vibrations inherent in the machine resulting in better print detail. This only works on machines that clamp the plate to the carriage the way the Mono X (or regular Photon Mono) does it. BE CAREFUL - if you dont know what Im talking about, dont try this - you may end up breaking your LCD. If you have difficulty getting prints off the base, try sticking it in a deepfreeze for a few hours. The print should just slide off. Put something under it in the deepfreeze to catch drips. Please note that any food in the freezer that isnt totally sealed will end up smelling/tasting like resin. Dont assume that something is sealed just because its in a box. Ask me how I know...

I purchased this resin for prototyping 13 scale Gatling gun parts. The resin smelled terrible, I will stick to the Siraya tech Fast resins from now on.

Love this on my anycubic resin printer

My daughter loved it and was very happy!

I was looking for a resin to make structural parts with, and this does a great job. At a thickness of 1/8 inch or more, its very sturdy, approaching the strength and smoothness of injection molding. I had to put it in a vise and bend it with a channel lock to break it. At thinner gauges, its flexible enough to bend 180 degrees before breaking, and can be stiffened by mixing with more rigid resins to get a mix of stiffness and flexibility. But you will need a small heater to work with this resin well, as it requires 30°C to get it runny. I am using this heater https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07573FKSG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title plugged into a digital thermostat https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I15S6OM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title to regulate the resin temperature. Youll need to find a way to attach the heater and the thermostat probe underneath the red cover, and warm it up 5-10 minutes before printing. I attached the heater at the top end of the z axis on the right side, out of the way of the build plate, and attached the temp probe to the left side. Just set the thermostat to turn on at 30° and off at 31° to keep warm. Easy.

This is the first tough resin Ive used and Im very happy. My first print on my EPAX X1 came out perfect. The model was a miniature with thin arms and fingers. All of the details came out, and the thin parts flex quite a bit. My second print was a mesh ball. I can bounce the ball without it cracking. Very tough. Two things to note are the ambient temperature needs to be 28C+ to get the best results (I have a heater), and the smell is a bit stronger than other resins Ive used. The odor isnt bad as it smells like a citrus fruit. Highly recommend.

Adding this to other resins gives you the benefit of the added strength without the gummy and difficult printing, if you are building parts for use in a mchanical setting, you may beed to use a heater and 100% this resin, but for miniatures, a 50% mix of this and another resin (i use elegoo gray) results in amazing prints OLD REVIEW before mixing: This resin is not easy to use and despite the description, DOES REQUIRE A HEATER. I shake my resin, store in 78 degree F home, and have been printing with ZERO failures for months (150+ minis). I printed an entire bottle (1/2 of the order [roughly $27 USD worth] and all but 2 prints failed the same way; the supports would print, but the model would/did not due to the resin being so sticky/thick. I have consulted other users on reddit printing the same models i was, and used all the setting options in the google sheets from many sources including ones i was told worked for them (they had a heater). The two prints that were successful... I sat with a blow dryer on high on and off every 15 minutes for 3 hours and baby sat the prints. I had to replace my FEP once because the resin stuck to it so tightly that during clean up it ripped the film. The resin its self is amazing when it prints, and would be my default resin moving forward if it were not so awful to work with. having to heat the enclosure will shorten the life of the LCD screen and technically all the electronic components in the printer, and makes the already TERRIBLY smelly resin than much more pungent. Unless you plan to vent ALL exhaust ports outside, plan to build and install a heater and shorten the life of your printer, and want several torn FEP films, I suggest you move on to something that works at room temperature.

I tried using this resin on the large-scale Peopoly Phenom printer. Peopoly recommends using their own deft resin brand however they also claim to support this resin. I used the resin settings provided by Peopoly and had two failed prints. The resin wouldnt stick to the build plate. I emailed Peopoly support for help and they didnt respond so I returned my unused bottles. Ive seen videos of the Blu resin and do like that its high strength and is not brittle. However, I wouldnt recommend it for the Phenom. I later tried the Siraya Tech Fast Grey Resin on my Phenom and it worked beautifully. I used the resin settings on Siraya Techs website. I highly recommend that resin for the Phenom since its half the price of deft resin, is available on Amazon with prime shipping, and creates (in my opinion) higher quality prints.

Incredible durability. This is almost like a rubbery resin. Small parts of my models are still flexible even after curing. I had a problem with supports not printing correctly and pretty strong shrinkage. I think this has to do with the high viscosity and flexible nature of the resin.

quality is amazing, also tough and can resist 80deg celsius. (well from my test)