Creality Official 5pcs MK-HF Nozzle with 2pcs Sprite Extruder Silicone Sock, Copper Alloy Nozzles for Ender 3/V2/Pro/Max/Ender 3 S1/Pro/Plus/Neo Series/Ender 5 Series/Ender 6/CR-6/CR-10/Sermoon D1/V1

This came with every nozzle size I could possibly need. I got two regular nozzles to replace my old ones, one to do finer prints, and two to do larger prints. It also came with new sleeves which is great to have. They do break over time so this is the perfect replacement solution. Im getting ready to print a large helmet so the 0.6 will come in really handy. I have already used the .4 and it works great!

Works with ender 3 v2 and sonic pad with an edit of the printers config file

I used this kit to upgrade a hotend on an Ender 5 Pro. I received a bad cable but the seller was quick to remedy the problem. Things of note if upgrading an Ender 5 - This is not for the faint of heart. 1. The original carriage assembly must be trimmed and merged with the included carriage. (The ears for the timing belt are located side-side instead of top-bottom) This involves cutting off the ears on the new carraige, trimming the old, and merging the two. The included bolts are long enough to handle the additional thickness. 2. The X-stop needs to be moved further backwards to compensate for the rather extreme offset difference from the original extruder head assembly. I trimmed the OEM bracket and redrilled the hole to accomplish this; there may be options available on the common 3d print repositories to accomplish this without fabrication. 3. The cooling fan and its shroud will hit the front-most aluminum extrusion of the frame. I lowered that piece by about 1 using some 90 degree angle brackets commonly available on Amazon. It prints fine with the piece simply removed, YMMV. 4. Youll need to mix up your own firmware and set offsets if you want to use CRTouch. I set the probe to nozzle offset at -30, -40mm offset, and utilized 3 point leveling with a 30mm buffer on the table and it worked flawlessly first try. You will also need to set extruder motor steps in the firmware as detailed in the documentation provided with the extruder. Settings - As I switched from a bowden to direct drive, settings were obviously different. The first prints I made were excellent, but needed a little fine tuning to prevent over-extrusion zits. The settings Ive found work well to start with (Simplify3D) Retraction Distance - 0.70mm Retraction Speed - 40mm/sec Coasting Distance - 0.40mm Overall Im extremely impressed with this head; the cooling fan works well enough to nearly print sideways without support, and the temperatures at the nozzle are the most stable ive ever seen after a lightning-quick heating time. Very well done, Creality.

I ordered these nozzles for use on my Ender 3 Pro with a standard hot end. The Amazon listing was a bit confusing and seemed to indicate that they were intended for use on an Ender Sprite extruder hot-end. However, there was no need to worry, these MK-HF nozzles appear to have the same dimensions as the MK-8 (see photo) and I had no problems fitting them to the standard hot-end on my printer. I didn’t have to adjust the printer z-offset to use these nozzles with a bed leveling sensor. The two silicone socks were designed for the Sprite hot-end and so I couldnt use them. The new nozzles are made from nickel-plated copper alloy which is stated to be better than brass (which is actually a copper alloy anyway) at conducting heat to the filament as it passes through. The nickel plating apparently helps stop filament from sticking to it so it should flow better. Also it should help stop the filament from sticking to the outside of nozzle. I use PETG filament a lot and all my brass nozzles quickly become coated externally with molten filament which can randomly deposit itself on prints while they’re being printed. These new nozzles seemed to stay clean during printing (see photo). The slight difference in shape may be a factor, too. The copper alloy is claimed to be 2x harder (at 6 mohs) than brass and so it is almost as hard as hardened steel (7 – 8 mohs), better at conducting heat and be able to be used with more abrasive filaments like carbon fiber, glow in the dark, wood, etc. In use, I was very pleased with the performance I got. Surfaces seemed to be a bit cleaner and certainly the nozzle stayed cleaner.

Ive only tried out one of these so far but it worked well. Im happy now to have extras because I think my machine only came with a couple. These fit perfectly and gave me a good print. Im not an expert at 3D printing -- still only a beginner -- but these were easy to use for me. Im looking forward to using the different ones to see how well they work and the difference they make in my prints.

Great selection of nozzles for a good price. I love that the come with new silicone socks since mine always break. Excited to throw the .8mm on a printer for some of my quick prints!

I recently tried the Creality stainless steel 3D printer nozzles and I have to say, Im impressed with their quality and performance. These nozzles are made of high-quality stainless steel, which makes them incredibly durable and resistant to wear and tear. The nozzles are also easy to install and fit perfectly with my S1 pro. One of the main benefits of using these stainless steel nozzles is that they can handle a wider range of materials than regular brass nozzles. This is because stainless steel is less likely to corrode or react with different types of filament, making it a great choice for printing with more exotic materials like carbon fiber or metal-infused filaments. Overall, I highly recommend the Creality stainless steel 3D printer nozzles to anyone who wants a high-quality, durable, and versatile nozzle for their 3D printer. Theyre a bit more expensive than regular brass nozzles, but the extra durability and flexibility are definitely worth the investment.

When you want the best 3D printing results you must go with a bi-metal heat break. It really does make all the difference when printing at high temperature like for ABS, PETG or nylon. It is also really good for the lower temperature filaments like PLA as well to give a much more stable temperature at the nozzle. I have done some test prints and of course the boat, and the results are better than I ever expected. This is a true drop in upgrade with no additional modifications needed. After installing, just need to run though the leveling setup and you are back on track to super smooth prints on all temperature ranges. Highly recommend this upgrade even if you dont plan on printing with ABS or PETG you wont be disappointed at all.

This Sprite hot end is a Great deal if your looking to upgrade from your stock hot end and extruded, I am newer to 3d printing and install was similar to a brick build follow the instructions one step at a time and you will be fine, be cautious of how the piece lines up on your machine, one bolt on the carrier may need to be reversed or adjusted to prevent colliding with the z axis. I personally had to print a mount to move the CR touch I installed to the back towards the x axis rail. But that part stl. is available if you look online. Very pleased with the first print results!! Worth the investment so far! Pay attention to how everything lines up and where your Cr or Bl touch is sitting vs your print bed!

Came in a sealed bag. Bolted right up to the extruder and worked cleanly since I got it.