Creality Official 5pcs MK-HF Nozzle with 2pcs Sprite Extruder Silicone Sock, Copper Alloy Nozzles for Ender 3/V2/Pro/Max/Ender 3 S1/Pro/Plus/Neo Series/Ender 5 Series/Ender 6/CR-6/CR-10/Sermoon D1/V1

This is an easy upgrade for the sprite extruder. Unplug the old hotend and thermistor, loosen a few bolts, slide out the old hotend and PTFE tube, then reverse the process with this kit except no more PTFE tube. This all metal hotend upgrade is necessary if you want to print a lot of PETG. While the unit will print PETG just fine out of the box, the PTFE tube degrade over time and eventually you get nasty clogs that ruin prints. It is possible to purchase just the bi metal heat break and use the existing heating block but purchasing this is just more convenient. If your printing PETG, ASA, ABS or anything other than PLA or TPU then go ahead and upgrade to this all metal hotend.

I actually got this to swap in so I can keep my existing heater block and titanium heatbreak as an emergency spare. Ive used a copper / titanium alloy heatbreak in previous printers and found they worked great for preventing heat creep when using higher nozzle temperatures for filament like ASA. Installation was easy. I had to remove the Sprite unit from the gantry. Once I cleared the hot glue from the thermister and heater connections on the board, I unplugged both cables. I removed the two screws hidden underneath the silicone sock and loosened the grub screw on the back. The old heater block assembly slid right out and the new one in. Reinstall the two new screws first, then tighten up the grub screw. Dont forget to run a hotend PID calibration. I didnt notice too much of a difference swapping up to this heatbreak, but it is a little better. If you print at high temperatures and are finding youre having heat creep issues, this should help.

Perfect to have multiple sizes and sock, and to have plated copper instead of steel. When using hybrid filaments (PLA-CF, silk, matte), you may get better results and avoid under extrusion by switching to a 60 nozzle, for example. With the latest slicer updates, you can get pretty nice results with the larger nozzle in these cases. There is also a small nozzle for those slow, precise prints, like lithophanes, small parts, etc., but you would be carefully selecting your filament and making sure your extruder is fully cleaned.

Whats there to dislike. Original Creality part. This is a must upgrade if you want to print PETG ABS and other High Temp Filaments. Great packaging, and fast shipping from the seller.

Unfortunately I got a heater block that did not have a screw put in with the thermistor. The thermistor it comes with has epoxy to keep it in place, with no screw. Given this is a common point of failure I dont recommend buying this style. The heater cartridge by comparison is removable with two grub screws holding it in place, but the heater cartridge has a much lower failure rate.

Be warned! This is not, as creality makes it sound, an easy thing to upgrade too! It took me months and multiple FB group help posts and a friend to get this installed and proper firmware installed!!!! Know what youre doing

I am against ptfe in hotends. It is super dangerous for people and pets. This quick drop in replacement for my s1 plus took a whole whopping 10 minutes to install. Definitely a must for the s1 and s1 plus! (The s1 pro comes with this stock)

I got a used Ender 3 V2 for a reasonable price but the previous owner had wrenched on the hot end something nasty and it was all banged up. It intermittently worked fine but was prone to clogging and I wasnt sure what the issue was. Curious about being able to print with different filaments, I bit the bullet and ordered the Sprite Pro. I was a little intimidated about updating firmware and changing settings that Ive never dealt with before but Im a tinkerer and figured the worst case is I can always go back to what I had before. Im happy to say that the installation went smoothly by referencing the videos by Creality, and with a little help from BV3Ds youtube (I didnt know what to do with the extra two connectors on the wiring harness). I also installed a CR Touch with it so that required new firmware anyway. The programming was all straightforward, just make sure to note the existing settings prior to flashing the new firmware. Adjust it all to what it was before except what the documentation notes on e-steps. Adjust the retraction in the slicer and were off to the races. It prints beautifully and nearly silent. I cant wait to try some TPU or other high temp filaments.

this set comes with a great mixture of the standard (0.4mm) and some nice to have sizes for detail prints and large prints. at just over 3 dollars per nozzle, its certainly not cheap, but its also not the cheap brass stuff either, so as far as value goes, i think this is pretty good. these are premium (relatively speaking) nozzles for a premium hotend / extruder set from creality. the reality is that the MK-HF is just a variation on the MK8 nozzle, but better material. as the saying goes, in for a penny, in for a pound - if youre spending the premium for a printer with the sprite extruder, the MK-HF nozzle is a low cost component that is pretty integral to the design, and worth it, in my opinion.

Clog free, no thermal runaway at 50mms with nylon carbon or PETG. Ive run 1mm nozzle at .8 layer height and IT THROWS DOWN. .8 nozzle at .5mm layer is draft quality. Best .4mm nozzle at .2mm layer is super fine for nylon and PETG. I went from an E3D V6 to this and very impressed.