DeoxIT D100L-25C Precision Needle Applicator, More Than A Contact Cleaner, 25 mL, Pack of 1

Good stuff - for radios and computers

I like to refurbish old test gear-- a Heathkit oscilloscope, a Simpson 260 voltmeter, etc. A common problem is intermittent connections from dirt and tarnish on the switch contacts. A lot of problems go away when potentiometers, connectors and switches are cleaned up and tarnish-free. I use a variety of different cleaners-- isopropyl alcohol, inexpensive aerosol contact cleaner, or even something like Brasso on heavily tarnished brass or copper contacts. When Im done cleaning, I add a drop of D100 to add lubricity and keep the contacts from tarnishing again. There is a great deal of debate regarding which cleaner, if any, to use on which contacts. In my case, by the time I get my hands on a piece of old test gear, Im usually trying to undo years of neglect or outright abuse. I usually have very little to lose by adding a drop of D100. The only thing I definitely wont use it on is some of the low tension gold-leaf contacts in some older Tektronix oscilloscopes. Tek specifically says to use nothing but isopropyl alcohol on these, so thats what Ill do when I finally get around to restoring the 7000-series mainframe scope that is patiently waiting its turn. Everything else, including the bazillion socketed transistors inside that scope, will get a drop of D100. Yes, Deoxit is expensive, but a little goes a long way. I buy the needle applicator bottle because its 100% contact cleaner with no propellant. I find the needle applicator wastes less (no overspray) and makes it easier to apply just a small drop where needed. The bottle I bought a couple of years ago is still 80% full, and Ive used it a fair amount. I still keep some cheap aerosol contact cleaner (my go to is the WD40 aerosol from Home Depot) around for doing the bulk of the initial cleaning, but the final step is almost always to add a drop of D100.

Works good and very pin point application nozzle

Ive only used this a few times so far (corroded provision plug for car cruise control actuator and a couple battery terminals) but it seems to work great. As a warning I believe it is supposed to be conductive, though, so you might want to use electronics cleaner to blast it out on smaller connectors that have very close electrical connections before you power the device up again.

If the contacts were made of good materials then you wouldnt likely need this stuff but, as it stands you do. I have a pair of head worn lighted magnifiers that I use for detailed work and the light got real touchy at best, became a pain to use. I put a couple of drops in as best I could and they have worked very well ever since, no more messing with the switch to try and get it to stay on. .

Im at least the second owner of a medium format film camera (Mamiya RZ Pro II). The film holders for this camera are contained in removeable backs, and there is a system of interchangeable lenses. The camera is battery powered, and there is a system of electrical interlocks that sense whether all systems are go or not, before you can push the button and have it do something other than beep at you. There are contacts between the film holder and the camera body that have to make good electrical connection, a mechanical linkage between the back and the body, and similarly with the lens. It is not unusual to see questions from new users of Mamiya RZs on-line, asking how to get around the cant wind it or just beeps at me when I push the go button impasse. I could see that some of the round-ish gold buttons that are the contacts on my holders, had worn down to be a little flat - probably the backs came out of a professional photography studio where they received heavy use, being rotated from portrait to landscape orientation many times (one of the strengths of the RZ system). I was having systematic problems winding the film to the next exposure, finding by experiment that rotating the back after each shot seemed to free the winder mechanism. Before I sent the camera in to a repair shop for analysis and a minimum $100 charge, I decided to try the DeOxit route first. The needle applicator let me put just a tiny drop on each of the contacts (I didnt want an oily mess spread around the inside workings of the camera), and I also used it to lube the tip of the metal drive rod that connects the film back to the camera body, in case that was part of the problem. I did the same for the lens contacts. Whatever it was, for the first time with this camera, I went through an entire roll of film smoothly, with no beeping, no film advance lockup (a sign of electrical or mechanical distress inside). So, Im happy to have found DeOxIT. Now I just need to find a way to take it with me without leaking when I take the camera out in the wild.

I use this stuff on everything! Ive revived plenty of metal to metal contacts, and its like magic. A must for DJs who DJ at various venues, and have no clu the condition of the connections. I do also carry F100 too for faders.

Works well on the electrical contacts that I’ve used it on so far.

Works well.

Love it