DeoxIT D100L-25C Precision Needle Applicator, More Than A Contact Cleaner, 25 mL, Pack of 1

Holly Toledo! This bottle is about a 300 year supply given that I only use on my camera gear a couple of times a year. Works great abd a huge improvement over the spray style they offer. I have gone through 2 cans of the spray stuff andwas lucky to get 3-4 uses before they ran out. With this liquid style bottle I just put a drop or two on a Q tip and clean the electrical contacts. It would be harder to use this style applicator on recessed contacts but for those easily reached it works well.

I like to refurbish old test gear-- a Heathkit oscilloscope, a Simpson 260 voltmeter, etc. A common problem is intermittent connections from dirt and tarnish on the switch contacts. A lot of problems go away when potentiometers, connectors and switches are cleaned up and tarnish-free. I use a variety of different cleaners-- isopropyl alcohol, inexpensive aerosol contact cleaner, or even something like Brasso on heavily tarnished brass or copper contacts. When Im done cleaning, I add a drop of D100 to add lubricity and keep the contacts from tarnishing again. There is a great deal of debate regarding which cleaner, if any, to use on which contacts. In my case, by the time I get my hands on a piece of old test gear, Im usually trying to undo years of neglect or outright abuse. I usually have very little to lose by adding a drop of D100. The only thing I definitely wont use it on is some of the low tension gold-leaf contacts in some older Tektronix oscilloscopes. Tek specifically says to use nothing but isopropyl alcohol on these, so thats what Ill do when I finally get around to restoring the 7000-series mainframe scope that is patiently waiting its turn. Everything else, including the bazillion socketed transistors inside that scope, will get a drop of D100. Yes, Deoxit is expensive, but a little goes a long way. I buy the needle applicator bottle because its 100% contact cleaner with no propellant. I find the needle applicator wastes less (no overspray) and makes it easier to apply just a small drop where needed. The bottle I bought a couple of years ago is still 80% full, and Ive used it a fair amount. I still keep some cheap aerosol contact cleaner (my go to is the WD40 aerosol from Home Depot) around for doing the bulk of the initial cleaning, but the final step is almost always to add a drop of D100.

Having an electronics repair and refurbish business this allows us to fix tons of things, saves us money on parts and basically prints money for us. A few drops and an acid brush and your USB mini connections are clean. you always wonder why your cables stop working, corrosion and oxidation is why. Looking at most cables/connecters under the microscope you find theyre covered in black or green crud. This washes it away almost instantly. Instead of replacing connectors that have no physical damage often times we can restore them to OEM levels of functionality. Always keep some with you and be the hero.

Works well.

This product works great at improving the electrical connection of connectors that are prone to oxidation. It lubricates and prevents further oxidation problems to restore normal function of your connections.

Im at least the second owner of a medium format film camera (Mamiya RZ Pro II). The film holders for this camera are contained in removeable backs, and there is a system of interchangeable lenses. The camera is battery powered, and there is a system of electrical interlocks that sense whether all systems are go or not, before you can push the button and have it do something other than beep at you. There are contacts between the film holder and the camera body that have to make good electrical connection, a mechanical linkage between the back and the body, and similarly with the lens. It is not unusual to see questions from new users of Mamiya RZs on-line, asking how to get around the cant wind it or just beeps at me when I push the go button impasse. I could see that some of the round-ish gold buttons that are the contacts on my holders, had worn down to be a little flat - probably the backs came out of a professional photography studio where they received heavy use, being rotated from portrait to landscape orientation many times (one of the strengths of the RZ system). I was having systematic problems winding the film to the next exposure, finding by experiment that rotating the back after each shot seemed to free the winder mechanism. Before I sent the camera in to a repair shop for analysis and a minimum $100 charge, I decided to try the DeOxit route first. The needle applicator let me put just a tiny drop on each of the contacts (I didnt want an oily mess spread around the inside workings of the camera), and I also used it to lube the tip of the metal drive rod that connects the film back to the camera body, in case that was part of the problem. I did the same for the lens contacts. Whatever it was, for the first time with this camera, I went through an entire roll of film smoothly, with no beeping, no film advance lockup (a sign of electrical or mechanical distress inside). So, Im happy to have found DeOxIT. Now I just need to find a way to take it with me without leaking when I take the camera out in the wild.

Great product, Fast shipping.

I was not able to remove my pick guard completely to get to the switches and knobs that were scratchy and intermittent. The long applicator was able to reach these controls and the fluid did the job! Saved me a trip to the guitar tech.

I have used this on many radios and still plenty left in the bottle. Love it! The needle applicator makes it easy to apply in hard to get places.

I have resurrected many a vintage Hi-Fi stereo with a scratchy balance potentiometer or intermittent push button switch that otherwise was destined for recycle. Its expensive, but will pay for itself many times over.