Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo

Everything about this was great, no clogs or anything bad happening, but after going to clean the nozzle and hot end and trying to put them back on, the set screw holding everything in place and the threads for said screw just ripped and failed. Now Ive waisted sixty dollars and a 600 dollar printer out of commission. I thought these things were good but theyre just complete crap. Dont buy this.

I purchased this for my Creality CR-10S PRO, installation was very easy (YouTube video). You will need to increase your normal temps around 5-10C. Working well and hopefully will last a long time.

Ender 5 actually printed 100% better with stock hot end. I assumed if I was getting better than good results with stock - aftermarket would be slaptastic... Heat dissipation seemed to be a problem. Had to Over temp settings to get similar result. Switched back to stock hot end. Seems to be very popular with many - I was surprised at the loss of quality out of the box. I eventually got a decent result. Ill be saving for another build - Still using stock hot end.

Habia estado imprimiendo con el de fabrica y lo cambie por este y mejoro muchisimo la calidad de las piezas

Installation was easy enough but after that it was nothing but problems. I was unable calibrate my feeder e steps consistently for reasons unknown even though I did a PID auto tune. After I got the feeder e steps somewhat consistent, stringing tests were a complete mess and I tried to tighten everything while the hot end was heated and stripped the heat block. My ender 3 stock hot end worked perfectly fine and I heard so many good things about micro swiss hot ends, DO NOT BUY THIS IT IS MORE TROUBLE THAN IT IS WORTH.

When comparing print quality, the Micro+Swiss towers over the others I have tested, You Must follow the instructions! (RTFB!)

Upgrade to a spring steel and magnet type of print bed. Like Wham-Bam makes. Those are great. Make sure to actually measure your bed, dont trust that the printers documentation is spot-on. The hot end will make printing with PETG work great, but it is a bit hotter than your current PLA set up. I like 220 degrees at the extruder and 75 degrees at the print bed. At these temps, it will weld your print to the old print bed and youll have to buy a new print surface anyway. This isnt me being instructive. Im being experiential. Ha! With the Wham-Bam print bed, you keep the bed heated all during printing. Then once the print is finished and it cools down... my experience has been near perfect prints that I can just simply pick up. Not stuck at all. And I tried to dislodge it while it was printing. It was stuck on solidly. Anyway, youre going to love the all metal hot ends and PETG or ABS and you can even do flexible filament prints! Kinda stretchy, you know?

No issues

Replaced stock hotend on my Cr10s Pro V2, worked perfectly with a 0.6mm nozzle, ZERO jams, whereas the stock hotend jammed constantly, would 100% recommend.

Ordered the wrong hot end due to the reviews saying it fits the ender 3. Now Im stuck with a part I cant use.