Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo

Ive tried several hot ends on my Ender 3 and my Ender 5. Ive had trouble with some of the V6 setups, and decided to give microswiss a try. Ive ended up installing it on both machines. It is a super easy retrofit, as it mounts on the stock creality gantry with no modifications. The spacing on the second one that I ordered seemed to be slightly different than the first, as my nozzle would hit the table before my BLTouch homed out. I printed a spacer for the BLTouch to move it further down, and everything has been great since. I havent had a clog from retraction yet, which was my main gripe with the V6 hot ends. Its also blown through a spool of Polycarbonate filament at 260 degrees without a problem, using the stock heating element and thermistor from creality. Seriously, give this thing a try if you need to print higher temperatures!

Ordered the wrong hot end due to the reviews saying it fits the ender 3. Now Im stuck with a part I cant use.

This hotend has its ups and downs. Personally Im switching back to the original one that came with my CR-10S PRO. I never had any issues with it and this one keeps getting clogged up. I know what Im doing and Ive seated it correctly but it still clogs up. If I turn on the printer after its been resting I make sure to turn the nozzle heat up to 230 degrees and make sure it is flowing nicely prior to starting the next print. It still clogged up on me on two separate occasions. Both after 24 hours of printing. Trust me, that sucks! Ive wasted enough filament on this and have ordered an original replacement from Creality.

It heats up faster, clogs less often, and is easier to clean.

This went on my CR10S Pro V2 and it worked exactly how youd expect. Virtually no difference with the stock one except I can safely print at higher temps now. I have another printer with the works. A bondtech e3d volcano setup as direct drive and prints great. I wanted something a little easier to setup this time. This filled the void with the CR10S Pro V2 Prints just fine and works nearly as well as the direct drive when your slicing parameters are correctly set. Was swapped over in less than 10 minutes. Its recommended you do a PID autotune, my values were slightly different than the stock hotend. Unless youre doing some really exotic stuff Id recommend this over going through the headache of swapping over to something a little better. If youre looking to go the works, look into an E3D Hemera. Its not cheap but about as good as it gets.

Ive purchased three of these for my Creality printers, I bought the latest one August 9th 2019. Three major flaws in the latest one. 1. The Bowden tube can slide out randomly, within the first minute or two of printing. 2. The set screw does not keep the heating block from rotating. 3. Filament is extruded through the thermistor hole. A minor fourth complaint would be the heat break ID was really tight on all the filament I tried to run through it cold. Ive seen this with other heat breaks and have a drill bit that cleans up whatever is left over from machining. So this wasnt as bad a problem as the three above. I love my other Micro Swiss all-metals but am leery of buying any more if their manufacturing quality is lower than the first few I purchased.

I was quite concerned about switching since I still do use PLA and PETG quite a bit. I thought I would have to wait until I got another printer in order to have one installed with an all metal hot end and keep the other stock for PLA and PETG, but I was quite wrong. Very happy with this product. I have gotten one or two clogs, but without the capricorn tube digging all the way through the cooling block, it is a sinch to simply pop off the tube and use some nylon filament to remove the jam with a hot pull. Again though, the jams are not happening ANYWHERE near as much as many reviews made me fear before I bought this. Only thing I do recommend is that you play with the heat settings yourself. They recommend that you increase the temp by about 5 to 10 degrees after making this switch but I found that my materials do better with 5 degrees less. They come out much cleaner and very well fused. Not sure if its just my hot end is a bit hot, but since I did decrease the temp I have not had a clog. Also huge huge huge important part to this is the retraction. Remember to both reduce your retraction and to tinker with your retraction speed and restart distance (distance that the printer starts at after a retraction). There is no perfect setting, you just need to tinker with it a bit. It will make your life so much easier by making sure you dont end with tons of clogs and that your prints look clean and tidy without stringing.

First of all, this is my third printer Ive installed this on. I was wanting to print some high temps, and wanted the freedom of the nozzle size, since I have lots of extra nozzles. I was able to get this installed in about 30 minutes. Ever since, its been working flawlessly and Ive been getting much better prints off it.

I got this hot in so that I could print PETG. Works great. It’s great having a dependable hot end

This is a direct replacement for the factory hot end. Remove the old one, trim the bowdin tube square, pre heat the hot end before tightening the nozzle. Then print! This works really well.