Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo

Everything about this was great, no clogs or anything bad happening, but after going to clean the nozzle and hot end and trying to put them back on, the set screw holding everything in place and the threads for said screw just ripped and failed. Now Ive waisted sixty dollars and a 600 dollar printer out of commission. I thought these things were good but theyre just complete crap. Dont buy this.

So far so good. Pricey but it came with a steel nozzle so that really helped justify the cost. The heater block looks like a standard ender 3 block. The heat break othroat is the same one that Gulf Coast Robotics use. Easy install. No buyers remorse.

Upgrade to a spring steel and magnet type of print bed. Like Wham-Bam makes. Those are great. Make sure to actually measure your bed, dont trust that the printers documentation is spot-on. The hot end will make printing with PETG work great, but it is a bit hotter than your current PLA set up. I like 220 degrees at the extruder and 75 degrees at the print bed. At these temps, it will weld your print to the old print bed and youll have to buy a new print surface anyway. This isnt me being instructive. Im being experiential. Ha! With the Wham-Bam print bed, you keep the bed heated all during printing. Then once the print is finished and it cools down... my experience has been near perfect prints that I can just simply pick up. Not stuck at all. And I tried to dislodge it while it was printing. It was stuck on solidly. Anyway, youre going to love the all metal hot ends and PETG or ABS and you can even do flexible filament prints! Kinda stretchy, you know?

Havent used it yet, but it came with a sticker and that is awesome.. nobody gives stickers anymore. The hot end fits perfect and looks great. Thanks for the great part and the sticker!!

Nothing

I have been running ABS thru this constantly for about the last 6 weeks. Does a great job. Printer is Creality CR-10S Pro v2.

Nice upgrade

At first I had issues with the product, they sent me another one. Totally good to go. Highly recommend

Followed the instructions outlined in their youtube video -- the bowden tube is not as easy to remove as instructed, and actually requires the block to be heated up in order to remove it. These instructions seem to be geared towards a brand new printer rather than an upgrade piece for a printer in use. When tightening the hot-end to the slotted block, the nozzle snapped in half. The hot-end piece inside the wrench and the threaded part still inside the block and now impossible to remove making the entire assembly a useless waste of $65. This was after assembling the entire block, preheating the hot-end to 230 and attempting to tighten for seal as per the instructions. When disassembling the block to put the stock one back on, the tiny screws at the bottom of the block holding the heating element in place stripped while using the tools provided in the kit. This made the entire printer useless, as neither the snapped hot-end can be removed, nor the original block re-installed. This tiny piece of cheap metal bricked a $700 printer, beware.

This all metal hot end is very easy to install. 5 stars. Could not be happier. This requires no alteration of the software. The only difference that your printer will notice is that this hot end is 3mm shorter then the stock hot-end. On the Ender 3 this is trivial because all you have to do is re-level the bed. The entire point of this hot-end is to eventually complete the upgrades to be able to print at high temperature for Nylon and Polycabonate. If that is not your end goal you should be good with the stock hot-end. I would consider upgrading anyways. This hot end is just beautiful and it is very obvious when you see it in person that it is a high quality piece of machinery and it definitely makes my 3d printer far far sexier. This upgrade alone will NOT allow you to print at high temperatures. In addition to this you will need 1. A glass Bed: other beds like magnetic will lose their magnetism at the required higher temperatures. 2. A k Type thermocouple. If you have an Ender 3 original board you will NOT be able to have a BL Touch and The K Type thermocouple because of a lack of free pins. The K type thermocouple is required to read the higher temperatures. The original temperature sensor is a thermister but this has too high a voltage error at high temperature so a change of technology is required. The K type thermocouple will also require a daughter board (sold separately) to communicate with the Ender 3 stock control board. A new revision for the Ender 3 stock board has come around April 11th 2019 out but I am not too familiar with the changes except the upgrade to non crappy and much more silent stepper drivers. If you want the BL touch and the K type thermocouple youre going to have to upgrade to a board with more pins and memory. I suggest the MKS Type L board and dont forget to buy the stepper drivers which are removable. (list continued) 3. One Meter Capricorn Boden Tubing. The stock Boden Tubing is Teflon and it will vaporize into hazardous airborne toxins when upped to temperatures needed for Nylon and PC. 4. An Enclosure. The constant warm temperature needs to be reached while printing the high temperature materials or they will warp and not print well or have good adhesion. Also it will be helpful if the enclosure is fireproof in case there is any accident. A brief overview of the installation of this part on the Ender 3 is as follows. This does not include the K Type Thermocouple Upgrade. Brief Installation Instructions 1: Remove the two screws that are holding the two fans over the hot-end. This will expose the hot-end. 2: Unscrew the hot-end so it is off the rail. 3: Undo the screw that is holding a metal tube that is the heater. 4: undo the screw that is holding the temperature sensor. 5: The metal tube heater and temperature sensor should now slide out. 6: Put the temperature sensor and heater into the matching holes on the micro swiss hot-end. 7: Unscrew the top of the original hot-end to release the bowden tubing and then pull it out. 8: The old hot-end should now be free and should be stored for a rainy day. 9: Mount the top part of the Microswiss Hot-end the way the old one was. 10: Attach the bottom of the Microswiss Hot-end known as the heat break with the included screw. 11: Shove the Bowden Tube into the MicroSwiss Hot-end until it wont go any Farther. Itll hold with friction alone. 12: Screw on the nozzle loosely. The nozzle is hardened steel good for printing abrasive materials like nylon and glow in the dark materials. 13: Reattach the Fan Enclosure 13: Bring the microswiss up to temperature and finish tightening the hot-end once its hot. Just a bit of pressure is good. 14: Dont Forget to re-level the bed as the new nozzle is 3mm higher than the old one.