Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max/Ender 3 V2 Neo

I wish I could give this hot-end a better review. It is very well made to say the least. That is why I gave it three stars. The hardware they supply is a little subpar. One of the screws that holds the hot end to the printer literally had no way to use it. It was perfectly round inside with no way for the allen key to grab it. I dont blame Microswiss for this as I doubt they make the hardware. I actually installed this hot end right after I made my first print with the original CR hotend. I followed the instructions to the letter. Used a torque wrench and followed some of the tips left in the comment sections. But I kept getting brittle prints and stringing issues. I tried various temps, and finally decided I wanted to try my original hotend once again. I had noticed on a couple prints that the tip would get a little goopy so to speak. So I would clean it off. It wasnt until I pulled the fan cover off to swap it out that I discovered there is a leak. and the whole hotend was covered in PLA. The heating element has literally welded itself inside the hotend. So I am not sure where it all went wrong... But it went wrong :p Ordered an original CR10s Pro hotend kit. This is mostly a hobby, and I doubt I will ever be printing exotic materials. If I do.... I shall revisit this hotend.

It clogs so frequently that I have not been able to finish a single print with it.

When comparing print quality, the Micro+Swiss towers over the others I have tested, You Must follow the instructions! (RTFB!)

Habia estado imprimiendo con el de fabrica y lo cambie por este y mejoro muchisimo la calidad de las piezas

This went on my CR10S Pro V2 and it worked exactly how youd expect. Virtually no difference with the stock one except I can safely print at higher temps now. I have another printer with the works. A bondtech e3d volcano setup as direct drive and prints great. I wanted something a little easier to setup this time. This filled the void with the CR10S Pro V2 Prints just fine and works nearly as well as the direct drive when your slicing parameters are correctly set. Was swapped over in less than 10 minutes. Its recommended you do a PID autotune, my values were slightly different than the stock hotend. Unless youre doing some really exotic stuff Id recommend this over going through the headache of swapping over to something a little better. If youre looking to go the works, look into an E3D Hemera. Its not cheap but about as good as it gets.

Works perfect I’ll pricey but you won’t have to buy it again

Nice extruder needs so modifications to design to keep the grub screw from stripping. Need to tap the right or left side for a longer grub screw the same size to give more threads to bite on too, if you remove the grub screw a few time like 10 over the years the threads get wreckt. Also a longer grub screw to fully take advantage of the very small amount of threads would have also helped the problem, poor engineering. Excellent quality overall. Wouldnt suggest the price point till they redesign the extruder. That is the only problem Ive ever had with it.

Ender 5 actually printed 100% better with stock hot end. I assumed if I was getting better than good results with stock - aftermarket would be slaptastic... Heat dissipation seemed to be a problem. Had to Over temp settings to get similar result. Switched back to stock hot end. Seems to be very popular with many - I was surprised at the loss of quality out of the box. I eventually got a decent result. Ill be saving for another build - Still using stock hot end.

Followed the instructions outlined in their youtube video -- the bowden tube is not as easy to remove as instructed, and actually requires the block to be heated up in order to remove it. These instructions seem to be geared towards a brand new printer rather than an upgrade piece for a printer in use. When tightening the hot-end to the slotted block, the nozzle snapped in half. The hot-end piece inside the wrench and the threaded part still inside the block and now impossible to remove making the entire assembly a useless waste of $65. This was after assembling the entire block, preheating the hot-end to 230 and attempting to tighten for seal as per the instructions. When disassembling the block to put the stock one back on, the tiny screws at the bottom of the block holding the heating element in place stripped while using the tools provided in the kit. This made the entire printer useless, as neither the snapped hot-end can be removed, nor the original block re-installed. This tiny piece of cheap metal bricked a $700 printer, beware.

Upgrade to a spring steel and magnet type of print bed. Like Wham-Bam makes. Those are great. Make sure to actually measure your bed, dont trust that the printers documentation is spot-on. The hot end will make printing with PETG work great, but it is a bit hotter than your current PLA set up. I like 220 degrees at the extruder and 75 degrees at the print bed. At these temps, it will weld your print to the old print bed and youll have to buy a new print surface anyway. This isnt me being instructive. Im being experiential. Ha! With the Wham-Bam print bed, you keep the bed heated all during printing. Then once the print is finished and it cools down... my experience has been near perfect prints that I can just simply pick up. Not stuck at all. And I tried to dislodge it while it was printing. It was stuck on solidly. Anyway, youre going to love the all metal hot ends and PETG or ABS and you can even do flexible filament prints! Kinda stretchy, you know?