Genuine GORILLA-LIFT 2-Sided Trailer Tailgate Lift Assist

I am getting older now and the ramp on my trailer is really getting heavy for me to lift off the ground and with these on I can lift it with one finger --- literally !! These were difficult to install on my trailer because my side rails are made out of pipe, but , if your trailer is made from angle iron it wont take you 45 minutes to install these. Great product

I installed one side and it worked great on my aluminum bifold lift gate. I decided to put the other side on and I needed to disconnect the inner spring and it works perfect and looks great. I would highly recommend this product.

When using the S hooks to find proper location for attaching the cables on tailgate, a lot of the cable coating was worn away; no big deal though. The springs kept pulling the tailgate up out of its location; I installed a stop above the shafts that attach the tailgate to the trailer frame; this corrected this problem. I know that all utility trailers are not the same; you may need to make slight modifications to accomadate your particular trailer. The lift system was fairly easy to install. This Gorilla Lift sure helped my back; I wasnt able to lift the tailgate without help. I can lift the tailgate now with little to no effort.

I have a tilt-gate trailer like the one they picture except it has 2-7/16 OD round tubular top rails, not flat rails. The yellow spring housings come in two pieces to allow a shorter shipping box. You butt them up and then bolt them down, two bolts for each piece of tubing. However, theres nothing to align the two yellow tubes together. Thus flat-bottomed square tubes are precariously sitting on top of round tubular rails. You are instructed to drill oversized holes through the mounting rails. This allows you to reposition the square tubes before tightening them down, but also allows the two tubes to move slightly as they absorb eventual road vibrations. The yellow spring housing tubes can become misaligned after a while. If that happens, the long garage-style springs inside the housing hang up on the misaligned tube edges in the middle and boing as they slip off. They should have welded ears onto the tubes that force the tubes to stay aligned or be hinged so that they are mechanically aligned after installation. Also, be aware that the threaded bolts are all metric. The carriage bolts look like theyre 5/16-18 thread, and say so in the instructions, but they are not. The gate-mounting bolts look like they are 1/2-13, but they are not. The carriage bolts supplied are not long enough to go through my 2-7/16 tubular top rails. I had to purchase eight new galvanized carriage bolts (didnt want them to rust). Thats when I discovered the threads were not SAE. The supplied nuts did not fit properly. One of the great features of this type of trailer is that you can fold the gate forward onto the bed to get it out of the wind for significantly less drag and better mileage. If you employ their permanently-attached cable system and its 6 long metric 1/2 bolts, you can never fold the gate inward -- the bolts make the gate too wide to fit inward. If you look at the pictures, youll see that I rigged up a different system using shorter, custom-cut 1/2-13 threaded rod with locknuts, washers and a hitch pin. This allows me easily to remove the cables and still fold the gate inward on return highway trips when empty or lightly loaded. I now have the best of both worlds: an easy-lifting gate and an inwardly foldable gate. Finally, a word on the springs. Since they have no idea how heavy or large your ramp-gate is, they supply two coaxial springs that are really strong. Two springs, one inside the other for each side, comprise the default setup. This means you have five spring combinations to choose from. 1. Both inner and outer springs on both sides, if your gate is really heavy. 2. Both outer springs (no inner springs) on both sides, if the gate is heavy. 3. One outer spring on one side, both inner/outer springs on the other side if the gate is a bit less heavy. 4. One inner spring on one side, one outer spring on the other side. 5. One inner spring on both sides. You test the gate using various combinations and S hooks until youre happy with the balance. The problem is that to get the springs apart so you can use only the inner spring, you have to cut the outer springs loop and pull the larger outer spring off the pair. This renders the spring almost unusable if you change your mind. Its a bit confusing in print. Weigh your combinations carefully before cutting. Out of the box and per side, you can attach the cable to 1) both springs or 2) the outer, larger spring. You cant attach to the just the smaller, inner spring by itself. Because my gate is fairly light, the combination I needed was a single inner spring on one side and one outer spring on the other side. I cut the large outer spring off with an angle grinder. Youd need a very large bolt cutter, or maybe a hacksaw, to cut the spring. But spring steel is very tough. Dont know if a hacksaw would make it. Anyway, now that the gate is balanced fairly well, its simply a matter of picking it up with my toe and it rises easily into position to be locked off. Very handy indeed.

I have trouble with lift springs being too strong to allow tailgate to drop down. I have extra heavy tailgate but springs keep it from dropping down past half way. Have to push completely to ground.

I am a CPA by profession so by no means a garage junkie. I have looked at these for awhile before deciding to give them a try and stop breaking my back on the tailgate of my tandem axle trailer. I also had a gentleman weld in two extra support beams on the trailer gate as I do drive have tractors on the trailer. These extra support beams are great except the trailer gate weighed about 150 pounds, I swear. Out of the box there are not to many parts. Step one, do not leave the springs and cable in the tubes while marking where to drill the holes. They do not tell you this and gave me a headache for nothing. Marking the tubes for drilling is easy, the holes arte kinda tough to drill as you are drilling into steel from your trailer. I started with a small bit then up a couple of sizes then the final 1/2 inch you need. Be careful with the 1/2 one, once through it turned the drill and almost broke my wrist so when close to be through, slow down. Directions are pretty straight forward. When doing the four little rollers look at the picture on the last page, the direction are confusing but the picture tells it all. Took me about 21/2 hours to install but think I could do the next one in about 45 minutes. My only question once completed??? Why did I wait so long to order!!! Buy it you will never regret it.

Hardware is universal. Bolts and fasteners were extremely long. Used my own bolts.

Wish I would’ve added these sooner. Easy to install and so powerful I had to remove the inner spring. Would definitely recommend this product

This product is going to save my back over the years to come. I have a very heavy gate on my landscaping trailer and I put it up and down at least 20 times every day. Instead of having to do a squat maneuver to get my gate up, now I flip it up with my foot and the rest of the way I push-up with a finger tip. It is a game changer

As my back reminds me of my age (74) I am completely satisfied with the assisted lift for my tailgate on my trailer. As many other customers say I should have had these years ago --- I was wondering a little about the fit on my trailer as I have a by-fold end gate but that was no problem. The only thing I had to modify was the mounting of the tubes as my trailer latch system was in the way and I didnt want to modify that so I simply put a 2 square tubing 10 long on each end and in the middle where the assist comes together and that raised the cable up enough so it clears my latch on the end gate. I mounted it on my ATV trailer and have used it a number of times already hauling my ATV for ice fishing trips and it works great -- very satisficed with the product.