Genuine GORILLA-LIFT 2-Sided Trailer Tailgate Lift Assist

Wish I would’ve added these sooner. Easy to install and so powerful I had to remove the inner spring. Would definitely recommend this product

I couldnt have asked for better results. Took me about an hour to install by myself, although help (as suggested) on the tail gate would have been thankful. Would of been faster, but two conditions on my trailer required some extra work (see below). Nothing to do with the Gorilla-Lift, just the way my trailer was made. Installation: The rails are about 6 long, (2) 3 pieces with bolts about 1 in from each end. Look at your trailer and make sure you can drill through your top rail and attach a bolt. Also the bolts they sent are long, I assume they send long ones in case you have tube railing. I switched out the (4) interior bolts for shorter bolts. Didnt need to do so I just like the appearance more. The back bolts on my trailer were located directly between the wheels. I had to drill through the top rail and the fender below. The supplied bolts ere long enough to reach through both plates. While the fender is thinner material it is welded to the sides of my trailer so I am not concerned with the capacity. If anything I will just need to add a larger washer at this location. At the end of my trailer they have a vertical channel to support the gate locks and stiffen the sides. Luckily these have an open bottom. I was able to get a 24 extension for the sockets and install the nut on the bolt. !!!Very important step!!! Make sure you attach the cables to the gate to see where the permanent attachment should be before drilling. I had to lower my location about 1 from the suggested location to keep our tailgate flat to the ground. Also make sure you check this in the position you will usually have your trailer in. Not thinking at the time the trailer was on a slight uphill grade when I installed the lift, when turned the other direction the gate stays off the ground about 2 inches. Not an issue for loading an ATV but could be a trip hazard. Plan to attach the spare tire to the gate to make sure it always stays down. How it works: As for lifting, I can now simply put my foot under the gate and raise it with a slight bump. My 2 yr old even closed it by himself, although that may not be a good thing. To lower you do have to pull down some, when before you had to make sure it didnt drop and smash whatever was underneath. I will not own a trailer again that does not have one of these installed on the rear gate.

So I ordered this and for one reason or another it took 18 months to find the time to install it. Started off slow because my old gate latch was mounted on the top rail and had to be removed. Then had to put new latches on that mounted on the side rail uprights. Total time to install just the Gorilla lift kit was under an hour. Now it is so easy to lift the gate I can not believe it took me so long to get it done. Strongly recommend this product

Easy install,well constructed

I recently purchased the ez gate trailer gate lift to help lift my open trailers heavy gate. The gate is removable (not pinned). Since the ez gate lift is only on one side,While lifting it would lift the gate so unevenly that it would pull the gate out of position making a huge frustrating mess. In the down position it would pull one corner of the gate off the ground about 5 inches while the other side was touching the ground. I found the gorilla lift after I had enough of those shenanigans and it lifts the gate flawlessly and evenly. It was even $10 cheaper for the gorilla. If you have a removable gate I would highly advise buying this product over a gate assist with only one side spring assist.

My friend had one and I was sold from the minute I tried it. I can hook the tailgate with my foot and it comes right up easily. Install can be a bit of a pain depending on your trailer manufacturer, but was totally worth it. My friend broke a roller after years of use and the repair part was easy to get. User instruction could be a bit clearer on where to mount bolt on ramp. Too low and not enough lift and too high and it comes up too fast. I cant overstate the importance of testing before drilling. Pulling the spring taut for attaching the bolts or hooks can be tricky. I used a loop of strong line on the end of the spring and then pulled it out when I was done to save my fingers.

This thing does what it promised! Saves your back!!!!!

This product so far has been working very well. It took a little trial and error to get the installation completed. My trailer had 2.5 diameter side rails, so I had to buy longer lag bolts at a hardware store for installation. Several tools were required for installation: needle nose pliers; heavy duty electric drill; center punch; drill bits up to 1/2 metal drilling bits; markers; 2 clamps to hold rails in place for marking; hammer; and silicone sealer. Luckily, I had all those tools readily available. Alternately, the instructions gave the option of tack welding the rails in place. Read ALL the instructions before starting. Some leeway regarding placement of the rails was explained in the instructions. Once installed and adjusted, the lift worked as described. For me the installation took about 2 hours. The lag bolts included appear to be metric, which are not available in my area, so I also bought nuts, washers, and split lock washers for the longer 5/16 diameter lag bolts I needed. Due to the geometry of my trailer, I needed a couple different lengths of lag bolts to keep them from interfering with the gate locking mechanism. This is not an installation for a novice without knowledgeable assistance, but someone with experience drilling metal should have little difficulty.

I purchased last year and installed a month ago. Springs on right side pulled through and cable on left side broke.

My unit has two inch square tubing. No matter how I placed the spring housings on the tubing - at least two of the bolts were over the vertical tubing. Meaning I could not get bolts in those locations. One of those locations was right at the tailgate where the rollers are located. The other was at the rear of the unit were the internal spring is anchored. I bought two four foot pieces of two inch aluminum angle iron and made brackets that bolted to the housing at those points the drilled horizontal through the two tubing and used bolts to secure the aluminum bracket to the tubing. In the middle I had to place the aluminum brackets to keep the unit level and then bolted them vertically through the horizontal tubing. Thing is - I had to get new carriage bolts long enough to go through the brackets and the two inch tubing. I followed the directions and used the chart to determine that my four foot tailgate needed half inch holes drilled 20 inches from the top rail. Worked perfectly and was able to get the cable pulled out and the bolt inserted with no help. The tailgate goes to the ground and stays there and lifts easily off the ground. Keep in mind you may have to remove the bracket that holds the tailgate in locked position if the cable does not clear it when in the down position. Then relocate and replace that bracket where it wont damage the cable. The extra bolts and the aluminum for the brackets will up the cost of the unit by about $100 dollars. Would appreciate if anyone has a better idea for when the holes fall over a vertical square tube. But I am completely satisfied with this product.